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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - MD Juan MBT/M100 tub - FINALLY FINISHED!
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MD Juan MBT/M100 tub - FINALLY FINISHED!
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 8:44 am    Post subject: MD Juan MBT/M100 tub - FINALLY FINISHED! Reply with quote

Has anyone on here bought and installed one on an original M100 (or MBT) chassis? Just wondering how much fitting is involved and how close it is to original (design). There is one for sale (fairly) locally, still in the crate, bought from Bensinger in 2016. The guy is asking $100 less than new price (plus I would have to go pick it up ~ 550 miles away). Thought if I could get it for $700, I could slap it on my M100 chassis and be done with that trailer.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)


Last edited by wilfreeman on Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so I called the guy and asked for his lowest price. He said $650 - I told him I would be there Monday morning! I got there, checked it out, exchanged $$$, talked a little Army (he is a retired Bradley gunner - I was a gunner, but didn't retire), now with the VA, and headed home.



I uncrated it and was pleasantly surprised! It looked to be fairly well built and accurate. I found a few things that weren't right, like the stitch welded seams on the floor (instead of roll welding - I won't be floating it anyway, so waterprrof doesn't really matter to me), end panels that didn't fit tight and a place on the top rail that was flattened a little.





The fender mounting tab holes even lined up!




Overall, I am very pleased with it.

Here is a link to my blog post with plenty of pics of the uncrating and inspection: https://wp.me/P8ig4E-zC
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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donthedickens
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Joined: Jul 30, 2011
Posts: 110
Location: Southeast, NC

PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW,, nice update. Thanks for all the effort to share the info.
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Don Norris
Southeast, NC
53 CJ3B F134
59 Willys Pick-up truck
54 CJ3B is my M606 wanta-be in progress (rough)
M100 trailer
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yessir - I wasn't able to find much information on the MD Juan tubs online, so I thought I would share my own findings/info. I will update the blog page (and add some info/pics here as the project progresses.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I'm pretty much done with the USMC M38a1 and the rally is in the rearview mirror, I figured I would take a little break from the Jeep and do something different.

I decided to work on the MD Juan M100 today. I pulled the chassis over to the shop with the side by side and removed the springs/axle and front frame/casting/lunette so that I could work with it by myself.

The measurements for the trailer were spot on, but the problem came in with the center brace and the width of the floor pan. I had to trim the center brace so the frame wouldn't hit it.



Then, the width at the bottom of the lip wasn't wide enough at the rear end, so the frame wouldn't go all the way down like the front. I had about 2 1/4" reveal at the front (lip to the bottom of the frame) and 2 3/4" at the rear. I ended up having to raise the front up 1/4" so that it would be closer, but still not perfect. I tacked the front corners, then moved to the back and tacked them. Then I came back and welded all of the points down the side. For the crossmember welds, only the rear touched the floor all the way across. The middle crossmembers were about 3/16" low. I used a floor jack with a 4x4 to push the floor as close as possible to be able to weld them up.

Once I got everything welded, I scuffed her down and sprayed all of the pitted metal with Rustoleum Rust Converter before spraying 3 heavy coats of OD 24052. Hopefully that will be enough to keep the rust at bay for a while to come!


While I was prefitting, I threw a fender on it. The mounting tabs on the frame are about 1/2" too low. I'll cut these off and re weld them once I get it back together.
_________________
Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, it's been almost a year since I posted about progress on the trailer! I have gotten a lot done the past couple of days and it is nearing completion.

I think the last post said that I temporarily mounted a fender. Of course this didn't go well on the MD Juan tub. The lower (on the frame) mounting tabs were nowhere close to lining up, so I cut them off and re welded them. I also had to elongate some of the other mounting tab holes.

There were a LOT of seams where the pieces (mostly the side panels) were fitted together that weren't finished well at all. I had to do a lot of block sanding, priming and re sanding to get these places to look OK. Most of the welds look like a low quality factory weld (or like something I welded!). This tub WON'T be water tight for sure! Not that I was going to swim it, but most of the joints are that poorly welded. Where the floor and sides were joined, I applied seam sealer so that if it got some water in it, it wouldn't sit deep down in the seam and rust. I did the same where the floor and end panels were joined.

Once I was happy with the sanding, I sprayed a coat of primer over all of this and started drilling holes for the data plates and reflectors.



The next day, I was able to get about 2hrs of sanding and prepping done before I laid down the first coat of OD 24052. Good thing I had planned on 2 coats, because I didn't have the gun set correctly and have a good many runs to sand out before I spray the final coat on the tub!



And the reflector holes (what a PITA all of these holes were!)


Then on to the fenders. I had stripped most of the multiple layers of paint with a wire wheel on the grinder the day before. I found a couple of pin holes and a few dents, along with a bunch of pitting. I brushed on some rust reformer to stop the rust and let it sit over night. Yesterday, I used an 80 grit disc on the DA and finished strip down to bare metal. Then I hammered out a few small dents, straightened the ends of the fenders and welded up a few pin holes (and found out just how thin the metal had gotten! I messed around with welding up a couple of holes for a while, then ended up using an aluminum backer to keep from burning through with the welder on its lowest setting.


The biggest disappointment came when trying to hammer out a dent around a couple of pin holes on top of one fender. A couple of light taps resulted in a large bubble popping up. The metal was so thin that I had to cut out a 2x4" area!



I found some 16ga metal that I had left over from the USMC 'a1 and fabbed up a patch. Those compound bends are a PITA for a NON metal worker! I used my knee to get the large bend, used a Sharpie to mark where the bend on the edge started, and cut a bunch of tabs into the edge of the patch up to that line (sorry, no pics of my hack job). Then I used a large ball peen hammer to get the edge radius. I tacked the patch in place, bent the tabs where they needed to go, tacked them in place and spot welded up the notches between the tabs. Then the grinder smoothed it all up inside and out. Yeah, it's gonna need Bondo, but at least it's solid now! Did I mention I'm NOT a metal worker? Don't laugh too hard!



So now I'm up to date on the MD Juan M100 trailer build. It is supposed to rain today, so there won't be any painting. I still have 3 days left this week off to get the 2nd coat of paint on and Bondo/primer/paint on the fenders. That's my goal for the week now. The Denton NC rally is coming up at the end of April, so I have to hurry if I'm going to bring the trailer this year!
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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OKCM38CDN
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 530
Location: Del City, OK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wilfreeman, going to snatch your post here for a quick question... When is the Denton show? I ask as I may be in the area the last week of April. Heading to NE (Maine) after Easter and then the next Monday down to Havelock, NC then back to Oklahoma... Trying to see if it might be a possible side trip???
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Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
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wilfreeman
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Hal,

The actual show is April 26-28th, with Saturday (the 27th) being the main day for attendance. If you were to pick a date, I would shoot for the 27th because all of the vehicles and vendors will be there. Our group usually starts showing up on Wednesday and will leave before lunch on Sunday. The vendors start showing up on Thursday.

Come on out if you're still in the area - I would love to meet ya! You'll still be quite a few miles away from Denton (~275), but if you're driving through it's do-able.
_________________
Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, final update for my week off + a question. I got the trailer painted, tail lights painted and mounted, wiring harness 75% installed, parking brake cable installed and reflectors painted and installed. I have the parking brake lever and rod, wiring shield and fenders in primer. I plan on scuffing the wheels and painting the wheels, shield and parking brake stuff this weekend when I get off of work. The fenders still need bondo before paint.

I also got those early style (with cotter pins) god-awful shocks installed - now that was a PITA until I made an installation tool following Wes's post from a while back. He suggested using very large channel lock pliers and a sleeve made from a bushing - I used an $8 , 8" c clamp from Harbor Freight and a sleeve made from a 1/2" union.




I tack welded the sleeve to the swivel foot on the clamp because the swivel foot kept getting off center of the sleeve and not compressing the busing evenly.

Now, for the question - actually, I have 2. Since I am going to end up with a USMC trailer, what markings were put on these? There is very little info available for marking USMC equipment. I saw on Ron's trailer that the registration # looked to be on the driver side rear between the fender and tail light. Was it also painted on the front and rear panels? Both sides? I have seen a couple of pictures while searching, but nothing consistent. I doubt I will put any TAC markings since there aren't any on my 'a1 either.

Second question: The passenger side B.O. light above the tail light - what type of lens should this have on it?
_________________
Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wesk
Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16225
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Now, for the question - actually, I have 2. Since I am going to end up with a USMC trailer, what markings were put on these? There is very little info available for marking USMC equipment. I saw on Ron's trailer that the registration # looked to be on the driver side rear between the fender and tail light. Was it also painted on the front and rear panels? Both sides? I have seen a couple of pictures while searching, but nothing consistent. I doubt I will put any TAC markings since there aren't any on my 'a1 either.


The Marines did very little marking on anything. Even their TACT markings were seldom used unless there was a mix of units during an operation.








Quote:
Second question: The passenger side B.O. light above the tail light - what type of lens should this have on it?




Bottom illustration is the stock M100 setup. The only way you would have an additional lamp above the right rear lamp is if you had added turn signals.


This shows the page from the MWO for the early relay box type turnsignal upgrade. The little light assemblies take over the BO tail stop light job when the turn signal update is used. The correct lamp assembly is ORD# 8761645 or FSN 6220-775-2385.

Here's a link to a 2011 discussion on these lamps:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5410&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff Wes - thanks! I know I've seen that before, but didn't locate it earlier when I was looking. It states that, on jeeps and the M37 anyway, that it should be on both sides of the hood and bumperettes (or tailgate of the M37), and should be in a straight line if possible. So I think I will put it on the FRONT section (in front of the fenders) of each side - STACKED (USMC over #s), and in a single line on the rear panel below the tie down hook. I won't be using a TAC symbol since my jeep doesn't have any. Funny I missed the bumperettes part when I marked my jeep - maybe I'll order those stencils at the same time I order for the trailer.

As far as the lights are concerned, I WILL be adding turn signals to my USMC 'a1 just like my Army one. I actually received the add on harness the other day - I just need to acquire the flasher and switch at the Denton show. I also have the correct B.O. stop light lens (door) for the bullet light too - that's AMAZING all by itself. It's the one with the single triangle in it.



I have another question: When did manufacturers change from the cotter pin style shock mounts to threaded? The original data plates (brass) for this chassis are 5/51. The plates on my other M100 (aluminum) are '54 (I think) and it has the threaded type.
_________________
Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the wheels, parking brake handle parts, wiring cover and chains painted after work this morning. Is there an easy way to paint chains besides dipping - I don't think so! These (M416) chains were originally galvanized, but had some rust on the hooks and a little on the chain - so now they're OD 24052.

No pics because as I was finishing up painting the chains I turned around and realized that everything had a dusting of pollen on it! I had to grab everything and transfer it inside the shop. Luckily, I think the wheels had flashed off (I had the outside facing up of course!). I checked them this afternoon and the pollen looked like it was wiping off.

Nice temps, but I hate pollen! Tomorrow after work I am planning on getting a skim coat of bondo (or 2) on the fenders, with hopes of getting them done and painted before my next days off (Tues-Thurs) next week. I would like to get this trailer finished and start working on the leaks on the jeep very soon in case I have to order more parts. I think I have everything I need (new companion flange and seal and a pinion seal), but you never know.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I was off the other day, I was able to get a few things done. I got the parking brake handle installed and hooked up.


I installed the late (IV cable connected to the harness) harness, then changed my mind and removed it and installed the modified early (separate IV cable) harness. I couldn't get that one to work right once I hooked up the tail lights (I ended up rewiring one of those because the wires were rotten outside of the housing - perfect inside), so I pulled it back out and reinstalled the late harness again. I double checked that everything worked correctly while plugged in to the jeep. Then I installed the Douglas connector clips, pigtail (3/4" pipe clamp) clamp and wiring cover on the right drawbar. I drilled and tapped all of the mounting holes. To finish up the front, I installed my safety chains.




To wrap up my day off, I installed the Douglas connectors to the light wires and wiring clips that I bought at Tractor supply.


If you look at the tongue pictures, you'll see the clip that holds the IV cable to the lunette casting. I threaded an old bolt into the casting, broke it off, then broke a drill bit off trying to drill the bolt out. That was the end of working on that for the day.

I still have a few things left to do, but the list is getting shorter - and so is the time before the Denton rally! Next time off, I will get the bodywork, priming and painting done on the fenders and get the tires/tubes changed. I am also getting ready to order the stencils and a (trailer specs) data plate and rivets.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty - the trailer is finished! I will upload some pics a little later from my laptop. Now, on to fixing a couple of oil leaks on the Jeep next week while I'm off, then the rally is there weekend after that.

So, before I put this thread to bed, I would like to add a center support for the tarp. I know there wasn't an "official"military version, but there are a few version out there. While I was doing the trailer outside in the weather, I made a pvc pipe version and used a regular old brown tarp. That worked ok, but I think that a center beam tire would look more "military" and would be easier to install. I saw the metal ones for sale and it wouldn't be hard to fab one up. One of my HMV buddies h made one out of a 2x something, but I haven't been able to get in touch with him to send pics and specs. So what are you guys' thoughts on the subject?
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here's some pics.













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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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