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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38A1 points replacement - terminal screw access?
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M38A1 points replacement - terminal screw access?

 
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JeepdaddyRC
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Joined: Jan 10, 2020
Posts: 170

PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:04 am    Post subject: M38A1 points replacement - terminal screw access? Reply with quote

A previous post on this topic identified the same challenge, but a solution was not explained.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11247

The author stated: "what is especially hard to get at it is that terminal screw. I cannot use a screw driver to remove the screw because the screw head is below the edge of the distributor.
Perhaps I can remove the screw with a small ignition wrench, but cannot replace the screw with it."

I have the same challenge. There is ridge on the distributor housing preventing access to the screw with a screw driver. The screw is below the edge of the distributor housing ridge.
Am I missing something simple?
Does the entire top plate need to be removed or rotated just to change the points?





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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16225
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



You have several choices. Sometimes you can rotate the advance plate slightly and get a regular common screwdriver blade on the slot at a slight angle or you can invest in a multitude of specialty offset drivers.










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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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JeepdaddyRC
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried the first three tools shown. No space.
Not enough clearance between distributor ridge and terminal screw.
Turning the advance plate clockwise might move the screw past the ridge for access with a screwdriver.
How do you turn the advance plate clockwise?
Do you have to remove the two screws indicated in first post photo?

Do you know the size if the terminal screw head? Is it 1/4 inch?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you need set #4



https://www.ebay.com/i/324147499433?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

I keep all the sets shown in my tool box. I do not recall ever having to spend more than a couple of minutes removing that screw. If you wish you can remove the rotor and the two plate screws/retainers and lift the plate enough to get that terminal screw out. I believe it's a #8 screw which would use a 5/16" socket normally but you still have no room for the socket.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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cabinfever
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Joined: May 14, 2013
Posts: 201
Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I did so I will never have this problem again was to replace the ring terminals on the coil wire and the condenser wire with fork terminals.

Now I never have to remove the terminal screw in order to remove or attach the wires.

Just loosen the screw with an ignition wrench and the wires will easily pull out or slip back into place without removing the screw.

Use the same ignition wench to tighten the screw.


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JeepdaddyRC
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My terminal screw is a good 15 degrees counterclockwise from that pictured. It is completely behind the ridge on the distributor housing, making it very difficult to access.
Your picture shows a terminal screw with much easier access. Is the photo from an M38A1 distributor? Wonder why the difference?
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cabinfever
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Location: Between Crosslake and Emily, Minnesota

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just borrowed that photo from Wes K. The terminal screw on my M38A1 distributor is like yours. It took me hours to get the screw back into place after the first time I removed it with an ignition wrench.

The second time I removed it is when I changed the wire connector ends. Now I will never have to remove the terminal screw again, thank goodness!

Actually, it was a bit easier getting the terminal screw started the second time without any of the wires attached.
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Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



When I rotate the viewing angle of Jeepdaddy's distributor to match my photo both appear to be exactly alike except for that small empty hole I have marked.

The level of difficulty would be exactly the same from this view.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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JeepdaddyRC
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neiko low clearance screw driver arrived today. Thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a try and change the points and condenser - after I get my rings freed up (hopefully).
Waiting for warmer weather, hands too cold for delicate work in cold garage. Finally above zero today - nice! Thanks for the excellent photo comparison.
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 1889
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think my condenser and points all came with fork terminals but could be mistaken.

An easy field expedient to make one from the other is to use a sharp pair of side-cutting wire pliers. Two snips to open the ring just wide enough to fit.

And I always thought a snipped ring terminal fit a round screw better than a straight fork terminal. Good luck!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
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45auto
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Location: Georgia

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I understand the situation--you are trying to remove the small bolt where the points, condenser and primary wire all connect.

Looking at the points sets and condenser I use, they all have the forked terminal ends so All you have to do is loosen the bolt, not remove it, with an ignition wrench and slip the points and condenser wire out and replace the same way. A little bit of jugging, but not hard. I use the Heavy Duty Standard Blue Streak points and condenser which have the forked terminal. There are others that have the eyelet but they are usually off shore brands. Blue Streak points and condensers are pricey but I have had excellent results (years of service) and keep a few sets on hand for new projects and if I ever need a replacement.

Standard Blue Streak Breaker Points AL-4556XP
Standard Blue Streak Condenser AL-111X
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Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
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