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Project Salty
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes the outer studs are 7/16. a 7/16 bolt started to thread in.


Lets just say with a stroke of bad luck this morning, the tap I was using to clean threads up, I somehow didn't feel the tap give that "Oh shoot!" feeling, and snapped. I had already cleaned out the aft hole. I was working on the forward (1) hole.
This is the second tap to do this from this set. I am chucking that set. I think it was a set I bought 20 years ago when I was working on the 37 Chrysler I used to own.

In this whole experience, I am pulling the engine and will drop it off at the machine shop to repair and remove the tap. The tap broke off enough I couldn't grab it.

so- that's it for me for a few days. me and salty about to break up.
Its not him- its me. lol
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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
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L134 # MC 91518

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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 1887
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2022 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very sorry to hear that April! Are you going to have the machinist return the holes to original 3/8" while he's at it?

Fear of breaking taps is the main reason I only use taps on new made holes.

Cleaning and chasing threads on existing holes I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lang-972-Fractional-Metric-Restorer/dp/B000P6UNHE/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B000P6UNHE&psc=1

Just a thought --- with the fender off that hole is fairly easy to get at. Maybe leave the motor where it's at and tow-bar Salty to the shop?
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 409
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2022 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

“Lets just say with a stroke of bad luck this morning...” April.

You deal well with adversity. Bravo.
At times my project has given me a case of the ‘bad attitude’ which is counter productive.

I have: -short list-

Broken off bolts, studs and taps.
Burned through sheet metal with my mig.
Caught my clothes on fire.
Inhaled toxic dust & fumes.
Broke parts. Lost parts. Bought the wrong parts. (I do that a lot.)
Broke tools. Bought new tools then broke the new tools.
Had to redo stuff then redo the redos.... twice.... or more.

I have cut, pierced, burned and removed shards of metal from most every spot from the wrist down, .......and painted much of my body OD.

And, yes, I have at times used colorful language but there is no one around so it doesn’t count. Cool
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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Xamon
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 588
Location: South East Saskatchewan

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was taught long ago by my Step-dad who is a machinist how to use a tap, every video I see online makes me cringe because nobody I have seen does it the way I was taught. That is everyone just powers in and goes only stopping if they "feel" it binding. I was taught one turn in then half a turn back always. I have used cheap taps on some pretty tough materials both cutting new and chasing without ever breaking a tap.

Sorry if this sound mean in any way it is not intended that way just saying what I know. And I don't know maybe you were doing it that way and just had bad luck. I am certain a bit of my not breaking one is luck. Anyway there you go for what it is worth.
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve always read only use a tap to tap a hole
Use a thread chaser to clean threads.

I don’t own any thread chasers, only taps…

🤦🏻‍♂️
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Brian
1950 M38
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used taps for over 20 years. Like you, only a little at a time, back it out, turn 1/4 turn (or less) and back it out. I do that, I lube them, I just got the stroke of bad luck on that one.
(on edit- I have never ever put a tap in a power drill- I cringe when I see people do this!)
Took machine shop less than 15 minutes to do this whole job.

Engine is already back in my back yard.

These were yesterday:
[


today



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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
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L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054


Last edited by CoastieReid on Thu Jun 09, 2022 7:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
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Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a large WOW April. Awesome!
Did you ever work NASCAR pit crew?
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ron-LOL- no, but one of my "kids"... one of my E4's (who always called me Alpha Ma'am) got out of the CG and went to a trade school down in NC for about a year- She ended up on an all female pit crew.


After I posted last a few hours ago- I went back out into the yard.


There were 5 hours of daylight left, and a fridge full of beer and I am off work till Monday.

It took a little longer to get this engine back in this time with the transmission in place. But honestly, if you add the time to instal engine, then instal trasmission VS installing engine with transmission already it, they were about the same.It was harder to line up this time.




Like the last 24 hours didnt even happen.




My NOS accelerator pedal came in from Midwest Military- so thats exciting......

Studs didnt show up yet. But the holes are all tapped appropriately. the two forward and aft holes are 7/16 and the rest are 3/8
Im not the only one with that sort of configuration. I saw a few other posts online about that. I found one of the old studs in the garage (junk rusted stuff from this build) and it was 7/16.

I dropped all the scrap metal off at the recycling center. Made $10.
Went and picked up my engine. Cost me $10.
Even- except it cost me 24 hours.

The engine was done last night before I even made it to my house after dropping it off.
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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Side quest.
Which side does the extension piece go on? passenger or driver?
It's not installed on this one as it is pictured
I was looking around in peoples photo albums and didn't see. My jeep did not have any of this when I bought it.

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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 1887
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew there had to be NASCAR pit crew blood somewhere close to this event!
Great job. Very motivating. 24 hours and some cold beverages later are now in the rear view mirror.

The extension bracket for the air cleaner goes on the drivers side, and it's positioned to hold the filter body further out and away from the firewall. The slotted mounting holes on that bracket mate to the firewall-mounted bracket with two "special" wing-bolts" (+2 more wing-bolts on the passenger side). The round holes use regular hex bolts to the body.

I think the Army's idea with the wing-bolts was that no tool would be required to remove and clean-service the air cleaner by the average driver-soldier. Except they forgot about the vacuum lines at the top.

Figure 49 on page 165 of TM9-8012 is the best shot I could find in the manuals. It shows the cleaner mounted and the bracket isn't on the passenger side.

Hope this helps.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2022 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spent time in the yard yesterday messing around with stuff.
I actually ran fuel lines. I had a pre-fabricated bent fuel line kit and the tank one doesn't fit. The tank is an aftermarket and the bends were just not right. Tried to modify it, but ended up kinking it.

So went to parts store and got a piece. I hate hate hate flaring tubing. I have done it a million times, and I just don't like to do it. So I just took a 30 inch piece and bent it to fit under my drivers seat and make it match up with the long section of fuel line.
To give a little extra room, I just bent the lip of the fuel tank down a little. The drivers seat has a notch in that area.
I added rubber to this afterward.



Put the front floor section back in. Painted the NOS accelerator pedal, and had plans to do other touch up painting but the humidity just kicked me inside.
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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 378
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was a bit all over the place today. Digging thru my “to do” list after I did a side quest in the yard.- I have been shoveling 2 yards of small chalet rock the past few days making a landscape along the back of the house. Finished this morning and needed something I didn’t need to lift anything.

Got the rear brake tee bracket fixed (the original bolt was broken off seized in it). Fixed- installed finally.


Tractor supply for one bolt, a washer, and nut. Cost 63 cents.


Used it to alight the alternator in the bracket.

The alternator came with a single pulley. The water pump and crank have a dual pulley. Wonder if I can change it...

Was going to clean the oil filter assembly, but it doesn’t fit the bracket on the engine. The filter was on the firewall passenger side where the oil bath air cleaner is supposed to be
So, guess I’ll need to buy the right one. This one is different than the fram or or junior styles I’ve seen. The bracket is permanent.




I am using a 12 volt system on my Jeep. I bought a wiper kit a while back, I cut the threaded rod and post for the wiper arm. Not wired yet.




Painted my fording handle black.

And added a key switch instead of the simple on/off switch.
I live in Newport ‘Nam. We have thefts and shooting all the time. Plus, the Busch gardens just set off their nightly mortar of fireworks.


Spent time cleaning the cosmoline off the primer pump.
When I was younger, I used to have to use diesel fuel to do that for old Fairbanks Morse engine parts. (Same engine ww2 submarines had, but ours had 12 cylinders)


It was so hot today and the neighbor finally was cleaning up the rotting leaves and dog poop from their yard. It smelt terrible. I had a flashback of a fun time in my life... if you know, you know...

Shocked
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April
i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518

M100 trailer #01279054
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 1887
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CoastieReid wrote:
The alternator came with a single pulley. The water pump and crank have a dual pulley. Wonder if I can change it...

Hi April,
What make-model is that alternator?
Your belt looks like it's sitting awfully deep in the pulley?

I also wanted to run dual belts because the water pump and crank pulleys are original M38 with dual belts.
I'm running a Delco 10SI 63-amp alternator that I rebuilt for "1-wire" and used a low-rpm 13.8V set point regulator --- and of course new bearings, etc.
I used a Delco 1970830 dual-belt pulley like this one: https://brillman.com/product/delco-2-groove-alternator-pulley-69-9mm-outside-diameter/
Got to use an impact wrench on the pulley nut to change them.

There's some considerations for pulley diameter to generate the correct RPM to run the alternator, and matching the pulley width and belt spacing. The hardest part for me was mounting the alternator so the grooves line up, but fiddled a bit with spacers and finally got it. Haven't thrown a belt yet anyway.

I also discovered that no 2 belts with the same part number are exactly identical in length, meaning that when running, one belt looks a little loose compared to the other. I'm guessing the Army had the same issue trying to get a "matched" set of belts.

I can dig up the belt part number I'm using from my notes, but yours might be different depending on your mount distances. All the belt tensioning is in the alternator mount bracket, only an inch or three leeway.

You haven't smelled anything until you smell a line of a dozen or so already ripe Port-A-Potties burning. Don't ask me how I know. Laughing
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari



Last edited by RonD2 on Sun Jun 19, 2022 1:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Xamon
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 588
Location: South East Saskatchewan

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2022 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oddly porta potties smell worse than a septic tank, or even the road side cesspits they use along the trans Canada.
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2022 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then of course you are rolling down the highway in Tuscany with the family and see a guy just randomly pulled off the road, standing there, taking a leak.

🤦🏻‍♂️
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1950 M38
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