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1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter
Transfer Case rebuild issues
Zerks causing trouble.
1952 M38 converting to 12V
M38A1 Slave Bucket location
M274 A3 Mule For Sale
flywheel advice
conversion from a 12 volt system back to a 24 volt system
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M38 ignition points condensor

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Furley's '51 M38
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16249
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be careful selecting a lower cup that will fit a M38.

Here are all the cup part numbers:

WWII MB/GPW - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306
CJ2A/3A up to SN 45984 - WO# A5631
CJ2A/3A After SN 45984 - WO# 642863 or 645369
M38 - WO# 118043 HH# 616389
CJ3B, CJ5/6 - 910289
M38A1/M170 - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306 - OPT cup - WO# 119765 UTS# B17915

As Brian mentioned you won't find a M38 air cleaner priced below $200 in serviceable condition.
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45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Furley11
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Joined: Jul 24, 2016
Posts: 34
Location: Austin

PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk wrote:
I'd be careful selecting a lower cup that will fit a M38.

Here are all the cup part numbers:

WWII MB/GPW - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306
CJ2A/3A up to SN 45984 - WO# A5631
CJ2A/3A After SN 45984 - WO# 642863 or 645369
M38 - WO# 118043 HH# 616389
CJ3B, CJ5/6 - 910289
M38A1/M170 - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306 - OPT cup - WO# 119765 UTS# B17915

As Brian mentioned you won't find a M38 air cleaner priced below $200 in serviceable condition.

That Bensinger site is sending me one for $38 all-in. I can commence with refurbishing the original. Hopefully, it fits.

As an update, I changed out the fuel line. I cleaned up and reused the shut off valve. Something about that old brass that just screams "cool". I am rigging a fuel tank until I can install a new one along with seats. Just want to get it cranked for now. Previous owner used a Jerry can and electric pump. Clever, but I want to go back to original config.
I also added a civy type oil filter. It had nothing when I got it. I guess this is a common thing? Man, that plug below the fuel pump port was a real pain.
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Furley
1951 M38
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ain't it though? I have a civvy fuel pump for now. M38A1 pump
on the shelf with kit waiting on rebuild. Bubba had run that line
from the filter back to the firewall and down to the gauge sender
fitting. Using the long fuel line. Impossible to install the missing
oil bath filter.

Got the fuel line off, and the flexible line installed all laying on my
back in the driveway. At least it's done.


The good news is no leaks. I test ran and drove it into the garage where
it now sits in shade and on concrete. 2 years enclosing the carport and getting
everything moved so I could get it in.

Yay!

It is a good feeling to make progress no matter how little.

More pictures Furley!
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Brian
1950 M38
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you are 12 volt. You've got an original three lever light switch.
That's good. They will work with 12 volts. Missing parts like levers can
be had. No windshield. Priming pump. Original tail lights. All neat stuff.

Civvy CJ tailgate. Bretto shows how he cut out the Willys panel and replaced
with flat plate, and installed the reinforcements on the back. It will work!
The crossover tube is not correct, but you can make one. And it will work
with the M38 or civvy carb.

I'll start a list to keep my eyes out for you. You can use a CJ3A windshield
with a few mods. They are around.

Take care,
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Brian
1950 M38
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Furley11
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you see the guy on Craigslist out of Bryan/CS who has a bunch of parts up for grab? Friend of yours?
http://collegestation.craigslist.org/pts/5696086524.html
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Furley
1951 M38
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy crap. I never looked past the first photo.

I sure need one of those oil pans!

Brent Mullins is in CS. Wonder if this guy
is related.
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Furley11
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Location: Austin

PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4x4M38 wrote:
Holy crap. I never looked past the first photo.

I sure need one of those oil pans!

Brent Mullins is in CS. Wonder if this guy
is related.

Let me know if you decide to go over there and sort through the buggies. I may have you look out for a few things for me.
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Furley
1951 M38
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to go see Brett Mullins. He has a warehouse full of stuff.
He sells on Ebay, but his webpage is a mess to muddle through.

Rapco in Bowie is also a good spot.

We have a lot of great suppliers, but you know there are just shops and garages sitting out there with stuff in them.

Like these A1 doors I'm going to look at tomorrow. He also has a bunch of used L-head engine parts including a block but I don't need any of that stuff.

If I get over to College Station I'll let you know ahead of time.
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you looking for?

Besides a windshield frame....

Very Happy
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Brian
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Furley11
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4x4M38 wrote:
What are you looking for?

Besides a windshield frame....

Very Happy

Yes, the windshield. Also, some serviceable seats (all 3) and a gas tank. Otherwise, it will be little things here and there.
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Furley
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Furley11
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got the fittings straight for that civy oil filter canister and hoses. It took a few trips to Napa, which wouldn't be so bad if it weren't 30 mins away, each way. Lesson learned: bring the #@$%@ hoses and can with me the FIRST time. Who knew there were so many different types of fittings/sizes/thread pitches? I also managed to bang up my paint job on the canister. All rookie mistakes, I know.

Wife: "Where ya goin?"
Me: "Napa"
Wife: "Didn't you already go there today?"
Me: "Yes"
Wife: "So, why do you need to go back?"
Me: "I am an idiot."
Wife: "I already knew that, what did you forget?"
Me: (start explaining fittings, watch her glaze over)
Wife: "Oh."
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Furley
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know how many times I've had that same conversation....

What's going on with your light switch? Looks like you are missing all three
levers and a couple of other pieces on the lower right lock switch?
I may have some stuff that will help.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

4x4M38 wrote:
I don't know how many times I've had that same conversation....

What's going on with your light switch? Looks like you are missing all three
levers and a couple of other pieces on the lower right lock switch?
I may have some stuff that will help.


Other than charging the battery, I haven't tackled anything electrical yet. I started to remove the 3-lever switch and stripped some of the screws. They have been painted over more than once. Electrical is next on my list after I get it running. If you have some spare levers, I am happy to buy them from you.
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Furley
1951 M38
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the light switch connector:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38-M38A1-M151-Original-head-light-plug-for-repairs-/291818037518?nav=SEARCH

They don't come much cheaper. If you are doing a full resto you can pull
it apart and solder all new wire. Otherwise just solder new wire to the pigtails
and heat shrink. Just make sure the insulation isn't all crumbly.

I'll see what's in the parts box. Looks like you have the dash lights.
You can get 12 volt bulbs for all the lights at NAPA.

There's quite a bit on wiring and diagrams here in Wes' photo pages,
and Bretto redid his wiring using the military schematic but going 12 volt if that is what you are interested in. They are worth more 24 volt but
moving down the road period is the ultimate goal no matter what voltage.
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Brian
1950 M38
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Furley11
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally reached the point where I could turn it over and see if/how this baby runs. It was hard to resist turning that key all these weeks while I worked on it, but I remained disciplined. I am happy to report, it cranked up on the first try. Man, that is exciting!

Now, to get it rolling on the road....
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Furley
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