Cylinder Head facing

southpw · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 5:55 pm Post subject: Cylinder Head facing

Good evening guys. I am having a real hard time removing all the gasket material on my head. When I think I have it all removed by using gasket remover and scraper, I let it sit, which then lets it dry completely and I see there is more material left and not a smooth surface. I have gone through 1 and a half spray cans of the gasket remover product.
So Im thinking of getting head faced but unsure how many times the head has already been faced. Is there a spec as to how shallow the bowl can get? I measure the depth at .460" currently.
Brad

_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

4x4M38 · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:31 pm Post subject:

You've got some rust there too Brad. That won't help.

Wonder if 0000 steel wool with a light oil would help?
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

southpw · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:48 pm Post subject:

Hi Brian. Those rust areas seems to be where the gasket remains. The other areas(where the dotted areas are) are the amooth areas but look like the gasket surface.
I would feel better if I could just resurface it without any issues. Unsure what original head thickness was and what the min thickness allowance is.
Brad
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

OKCM38CDN · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:04 pm Post subject:

Have you thought about using a BRASS wire brush on a grinder... brass should not hurt the head but take off the extra gunk...
_________________
Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK

4x4M38 · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:07 pm Post subject:

Have it bead blasted, magnafluxed, and checked for straightness.

If all that pans out I think you should be ok.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

4x4M38 · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:10 pm Post subject:

I did check the M38 engine manual. No out of tolerance numbers
for the head. You might find something in one of the civvy manuals.

Take care,
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

wesk · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:40 pm Post subject:

I've never seen a minimum height spec for the L134 head.

You are limited on shaving amount by valve contact with the head and excessive compression ratio.

The easiest way to put your mind at rest is to drop the head at the auto machine shop and await their notice to pick it up.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

mbullism · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2015 Posts: 36

I have seen discussions on head thickness vs compression ratio. Fairly certain it was measured from top of the rib to mating surface.

Will try and find a link-

ETA: this is not what I was thinking of, but see item #4

http://www.classicmilitaryautomotive.com/tag/l-134/

(it sure sounds like a lot... just passing it on)

wesk · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 9:23 am Post subject:

As I said above, Part 2 / Par 4 of that link restates what I said, Over shaving of the head can result in too high a compression and valve interference. Also the info posted there is only what they assume to be original approximate factory head thickness as we do not have any factory published data available. I can hardly imagine that removing nearly a 1/4" from a 1/2" head could be considered an option. Also the head helps remove heat from the engine so the more meat you remove from the head the faster it will get hot and the less heat it will wick away from the engine.

My advice remains the same, take the head to your auto machinist and see what they have to say.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

southpw · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 10:08 am Post subject:

Will do. Thanks for all the advice and info
Brad
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

mbullism · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2015 Posts: 36

Took me a while to track this down... lol- work gets in the way:

southpw · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 3:19 pm Post subject:

Thanks for that info. My head thickness measures 2.095" so I may be best to just keep working this material off and not face it again.
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

4x4M38 · Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 3:38 pm Post subject:

Sounds like you've got a hot rodded head!

Might try some mineral spirits with your scraper. Or as I suggested
bead blast.

Take care,
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

mbullism · Member Joined: Jul 14, 2015 Posts: 36

I'm not saying don't take it to a machine shop, only that you get as much info as possible to make an informed(?) decision is all...

On another note, x2 on the brass wire brush, just watch out for the gold colored wire wheels that are actually stiff steel. A magnet wont lie-


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