Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3444 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 7:11 pm Post subject:
I'm going to step out on a limb.
Unless you have period photos of that vehicle with the registration
numbers visible, and have providence that the restored vehicle you
have is the one in the photo(s), there is no other way to determine
the history of your vehicle.
The short version is the military destroyed all records of a vehicle once
it left the service.
Maybe if you are lucky the person you bought the vehicle from did all the
work and was able to find some of this information.
I hope this doesn't diminish any enthusiasm you have for your jeep,
but this is a common question to new owners and a common answer.
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3444 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:11 pm Post subject:
Ah.
In the list of topics you'll find photo page requests. There is a way to
link off site photos, but easiest is ask for a photo page and you'll get
a place to post your pics.
Your hood number is pretty close to what it should be for a June 1952 unit with your serial number.
Quote:
IC-I6R
Could be 1st Cav, 16th Recon Sq.
Quote:
R-6
Could be Recon 6
What you haven't told us is are these markings uncovered by removing paint by yourself? Or are they the markings that were on the jeep when you purchased it?
As mentioned above, the military retired (destroyed) tactical vehicle records about 6 months after they were released surplus. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Different question:
What type of oil do you use and approx how much? Have not been able to locate info in manul.
Is it safe to run alcohol free 92 octane gas? Manual advises higher than 60 octane needed.
How about brake and transmission fluids?
Not sure about if the markings were reapplied after restoration making it original or the guys at MVPA wanted it to look like something they knew. I am going to ask some more questions and try to post some better information.
I really appreciate yall taking the time to post responses.
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3444 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 8:22 am Post subject:
All of the military manuals for these vehicles are here in the downloads
area free to download. In there are all of the specs as well as service
information.
Reg pump unleaded gas with as little ethanol as can be found is just fine.
For the engine any quality straight weight (use the weight that applies to your temperature zone)SA, SB, SC grade engine oil will be fine as long as it meets the old spec. usually the tough oils found at farm equipment shops or the specialty oils listed for old restorations.
Before we talk about the tranny there is something everyone seems to forget. Hypoid gear sets are found in differentials and not in our T90 trannies! Our T90's have no need at all for hypoid oils. Hypoids are extreme high pressure lubes for the high tooth face loads on hypoid type gears. Heavy weight engine oils will treat your tranny gear sets just fine. Another important note to understand is the GL- series oils use a different viscosity rating scale. Although it would appear they are heavier than most engine oils they in fact are not. A 75W90 gear oil is actually equivalent viscosity to a 10W40 motor oil!
For the tranny disregard the hype about many modern hypoid gear oils in the GL5/6 category and in multi-weights with low sulpher will work just fine. There is no guaranty that these GL5/6 oils will not damage your non-ferrous synchronizer gears sets Stay with the older GL-2, 3 or 4 and the seasonal recommended (in your manual) weight. Or just use 50 weight engine oil.
GL6/6 will work in the transfer but you shouldn't use different oils in the two units since in some cases the oil can migrate from one to the other.
Be careful with brake fluids. First learn what different types are out there, then learn to ID what you have now in the system. Then decide. DOT Type 3 & 4 brake fluids are Glycol based and are not compatible with DOT Type 5 silicon brake fluids. Don't confuse DOT 5.1 NON-SILICON with DOT 5. They are not the same fluids or even close. Now to really confound the situation the Military under pressure from Congress & the DOD started using DOT-5 in the 50's. Probably nepotism! So most surplus vehicles that left the military from the 1950's on came out with DOT 5! To switch fluids requires extreme flushing of the system. Glycol based fluids are fairly simple to flush. The silicon fluids are extremely tough to flush. Usually the best way to deal with a silicon contaminated system is to replace all the rubber parts and thoroughly clean & flush many times. Many old hat restorers still stand by this DOT 5. Trust me it's not what they say it is. Not a single modern vehicle manufacture uses it in any of their production vehicles period!
If you are not easily influenced by very opinionated folks like me then I suggest you google the GL fluid descriptions and the DOT 5 vs Dot 3&4 descriptions and leanr about them. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks for all of the info Brian (4x4M38) and Wesk!
wesk - can I get a photo account so I can post what I am talking about?
Also, I am very ignorant on the variety of fluids you brought to my attention...
Engine oil you recommended straight - somebody advised 10w-40 and another 10w-30 due to the 2002 re-built motor... what do you use? I want that given you own a jeep and they do not.
For the tranny you advised 50 weight oil. Not familiar with GL-2, 3 or 4.
For the transfer you advised to use the same oil as in the transmission? Didn't know if it made a difference if using 50 weight instead of the GL's. It would definitely make it easier if you used 50 weight for engine, tranny, and transfer.
Last, I have a brake fluid leak in a rear cylinder. I have no idea what type of fluid was in there and the master cylinder was empty when I opened it. I put DOT 3 in there prior to seeing your post. Could I have really messed something up?
I am still trying to track down info on the restore and whether the hood numbers and bumper numbers were original. Still nothing from MVPA.
Also, I am very ignorant on the variety of fluids you brought to my attention...
Rather then assume anyone is smarter than you take my suggestion to learn these fluids on your own by google searching each type and study.
Engine oil you recommended straight - somebody advised 10w-40 and another 10w-30 due to the 2002 re-built motor... what do you use? I want that given you own a jeep and they do not.
Multiweight oils were, for the most part, semi-synthetic and designed for modern engines. I use any quality straight weight (IE 30 weight) oil that meets the specs I posted above. I happen to prefer Texas oils like Valvoline. These engines aren't that fussy and will tolerate the multi-viscosities.
For the tranny you advised 50 weight oil. Not familiar with GL-2, 3 or 4.
Again, get on google and educate yourself on the GL's. I use 50 weight racing engine oil.
For the transfer you advised to use the same oil as in the transmission? Didn't know if it made a difference if using 50 weight instead of the GL's. It would definitely make it easier if you used 50 weight for engine, tranny, and transfer.
Life and high dollar restorations are not about being easier. 50 weight is too heavy for our engines even in the summer. Just use the weight suggested in the manual for the specific season/climate you are in.
Last, I have a brake fluid leak in a rear cylinder. I have no idea what type of fluid was in there and the master cylinder was empty when I opened it. I put DOT 3 in there prior to seeing your post. Could I have really messed something up?
Possibly. Depends on what has been in there. Easiest way to tell what was in there is to use your nose. Smell the DOT 3 container then bleed a wee bit of fluid from the right rear brake and smell it. They smell the same they are the same. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Did the MVPA Association actually restore it or was it just restored by a member of the MVPA. In this previous sentence MVPA is the National Organization. There are many local chapters so it is possible that members of a local chapter may have restored it but I see no reason why the National MVPA would have any records on it. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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