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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Valve Removal
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Valve Removal

 
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Derstrom
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Joined: May 23, 2016
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:21 am    Post subject: Valve Removal Reply with quote

I'm overhauling a F134. The heads removed and the valve springs are removed. The valves are stuck in the guides. Any suggestions? Anyone dealt with this before? I tried searching this but no luck.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 12701
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Penetrant and large BRASS hammer and drift. Heat doesn't help much.

If you have already made the mistake and hammering against the valve stem with steel hammer and drift then before it starts moving lower grind off the mushroom head you created before trying to drive the end of the stem thru the guide.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Derstrom
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Joined: May 23, 2016
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was on the right track then. I have hit the valve stems with a rubber shot hammer, and tapped with a little ball peen but the valves aren't deformed in any way. I was thinking about heat, but I'll go fetch a brass hammer and get to work. Thanks Wes, your help is much appreciated!
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 12701
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Due to the tight fit only top shelf penetrants will work. I prefer Mousemilk for the tough jobs. PB Blaster is my second choice.

Heat the area around the valve guide a wee bit with a propane torch then apply the penetrant and continue to apply until it stops boiling. Let her set a day or two.



http://www.skygeek.com/mouse-milk.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=mouse-milk&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZfLBRCzARIsAH3wMKoszDI6HDWY-OPmWzSCdC6m4Ui-ZyY2kjLRXWsFJuqeB-m1t_HdTM0aAuHbEALw_wcB

http://www.mousemilk.com/


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 175
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Wes. No intent to hijack the post, but I've seen your other posts about Mouse Milk and have been curious because I never heard of it before here. I maybe interested to order 8 ounces for $21 delivered (steep compared to PB Blaster) just to make the difference between success and failure when I need it most, but have a question: the link says:

"Opened Container: Product will develop light brown tint within 30 days. Airborne particles will contaminate the product and the volatile ingredients will dissipate rapidly. Product will become ineffective as penetrating oil after 30 days."

Have you experienced this? Does it really become useless a month after opening, even closing the container right away? What kind of evaporation or chemical reaction does that? Eight ounces seems like a lot for any job I can think of (save them all up for a month at a time?), but I'm a rookie and appreciate the advice.
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Ron D.
1952 M38, no data plates, year and pedigree unknown, marked 20932721 (last 5 digits from SCDMV assigned VIN)
1951 M100, Dunbar Kapple 01169903, dod 5/51 to the U.S.A.
1954 M100, Dunbar Kapple M750759, dod 1/54 to the U.S.M.C.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 12701
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Ron,

Just about all the penetrants are volatile aromatic mixes. Exposure to the atmosphere will dissipate any of their aromatics in short order.

I can't say for sure how close the 30 day notice is to my experience with using it but I am guessing I seldom make it to the 30th day before my bottle is empty.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Derstrom
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Joined: May 23, 2016
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems we can't get mouse milk up here in Canada. I've been using Kroil. Still not moving. Heat.... squirt... hit. Repeat.
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wesk
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Posts: 12701
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes the best way to instruct on a procedure is by demonstration. I would suggest lacking success at this procedure you take your head to an automotive machinist and have him demonstrate the proper execution of the procedure.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Derstrom
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Joined: May 23, 2016
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I ain't done with that miserable lump of metal yet, Wes. I'm a very stubborn old man.
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wesk
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Posts: 12701
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried flooding the intake port with the head inverted and let it soak bottom up?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Derstrom
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Joined: May 23, 2016
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got it. Heat cycled #4 and #3 about 20x with a penetrating oil cool down. Got em both out. Bad news is the head is corroded so bad inside it's not reparable. But thanks again Wes. Having you and the site as backup is a godsend sometimes, thanks for doing what you do.
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 175
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amen to that!
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Ron D.
1952 M38, no data plates, year and pedigree unknown, marked 20932721 (last 5 digits from SCDMV assigned VIN)
1951 M100, Dunbar Kapple 01169903, dod 5/51 to the U.S.A.
1954 M100, Dunbar Kapple M750759, dod 1/54 to the U.S.M.C.
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