I have run across some more production and testing photos in some military Journals too.
Problem is getting it all to fit/ spaced out properly and then the time to add the information and write/edit the work.
When you have some time. i would like your thoughts on the grille on this jeep. As I said earlier, when I got this thing it had a CJ2A grille. I have a friend who has collected M38 stuff for a very long time. I finally talked him out of this NOS grille. But its different from any other M38 grille I have ever seen or seen photos of. It has a bulge at the bottom center (like some gpw grilles) and a tab for mounting to the cross member like a divvy grille. I have some pics and it still has its part number.
At any rate I have seen the heads there when the battery box was removed. If you have the early tub with the two indents it had those studs. Yours have obviously been cut off and ground smooth. If you bead blast the front of those indents you will expose the outline of a round stud.
If you remove the 4 bolts in the front wall of the battery box and remove the 5 bolts fastening the dash to battery box brace you can pry the box away from the firewall enough. removing the 4 screws and the bottom of the box panel will make it easier.
Thanks Wes! Those pictures are very helpful. With the body on I can't contort enough to see those views.
You are correct. I ever so slowly removed the paint from the firewall side of those raised areas and you can just see the tell-tale evidence of the welding done to fill up those holes.
Funny someone would go to that much trouble to do that and then just leave a gas-axe hole elsewhere on the firewall. But probably more than one owner has had their hand at messing with this thing.
I think rather than remove the battery box to get at those cut off studs, I will simply drill and tap them from the engine side of the firewall and install threaded studs. Possibly braze them in to keep them retained.
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:25 am Post subject:
Here is a photo of the back of my firewall, wire brushed.
You can see the effects of the battery acid and fumes over time
has corroded and eaten away much of the sheet.
And our friend Bubba has added holes for the 1960's air cleaner that was mounted inside the passenger compartment as well as whatever other wet dreams he had in mind.
You can see the flat heads of the mounting screws for the air cleaner as well as the radio filter....barely. They are below the surface of the surrounding sheetmetal. The battery box is flush up against the firewall in this area.
WoW! You didn't have much to work with there. Funny my Bubba, must be related to yours. I have a similar hole that goes through both the firewall and the battery box. I wondered what Bubba was thinking. I bet it was another cool air cleaner set up like yours. Mine (thank god) is not so hacked and I have found no rust up in this area. Your Bubba looks like he cut that hole with an axe, sheez. My Bubba took the trouble to drill 67 holes in nearly a circular pattern before knocking the center out.
I think you did fine. No one will notice at first or second glance, especially once the air cleaner is in place
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:37 am Post subject:
Thanks. It was a lot of work.
I was actually shopping for a firewall I could cut that out of,
but sadly it is a common fail point, and a full replacement is beyond
my meager skills.
The back is more rough. But with the box in place it will look fine.
Drilling and tapping should work fine. Just remember
you are drilling and tapping in the 18 gauge until you
get to the flat head on the back. Careful. And watch that
box!
Good news is even if you install the filter the four studs
are in tension with the nuts and filter squeezing up against
the sheetmetal. Brazing might not be a bad idea, just don't
overheat it. Might run a die up the threads when you finish.
Now Im toying with how early I want my representation to be. I thinkI can go as early as i like, since this isn't a correct Jeep anyway.
Current train of thought. Swap the CJ2A chassis for a CJ3A. The guy who restored mine is just finishing up a 3A chassis and will swap even. The M38 grill I have mounts to a CJ chassis OR a M38 chassis and its part number is from 1949. So maybe a pre-production photo-type. Again, Im not going to try and pass it off as one, just a representation of one. I am not going to restore or repaint the body either. I will fix the hole in the fire wall and some of the hat sections, but basically that is all that is wrong with the body.
What i don't want to get into is hunting down incredibly rare (expensive) parts that would be wasted putting on this Jeep. I do have the two connector light switch though so at least that piece is good to go!
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:52 am Post subject:
If you are even considering a frame change I would encourage you to
look for an M38 frame.
A restored M38 in any condition is much more desirable and valuable
than a mutt of any kind.
M38 frames are around.
As far as parts, many parts are the same as the CJ3A, and many more
are available for reasonable prices and sometimes at bargain prices
if you are patient. Start a list of needed parts and begin looking. If you have time to look you have good chances of finding what you need for what you want to pay.
That two lever switch if working is a serviceable unit unlike later
ones meant to be throwaways.
Don't forget your brethren here when looking for parts, as you did
with the dash plate.
We all seem to accumulate parts rebuilding these old warriors.
Don't forget the 3A frame doesn't accommodate the regulator bracket nor does it have the correct height forward battery tray.You can easily convert a CJ3A frame to a very strong likeness of the M38 frame by switching the pedal mount pillar and boxing in the front of the frame rails. (edited out references to m38A1 gas tank fit)
Always keep your eyes open for parts period. Many folks do not even realize pieces they wish to sell are even from an M38. My battered tub enjoyed replacement sections of two separate M38 cowls I found for less the $50. Correct M38 fenders cost at least $150 each used. I found a pair in very nice shape 6 years ago at Iola that were priced $100 each but I held off to the last day of the show and bought then that Sunday noon for $50 each. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
What is this deep well you are referring to? I have the M38 tank and it fits my body, which has no well for the tank. The floor is flat from the toe board to the raised rear section on the drivers side. I thought only the A1s had that deeper tank?
Last edited by mdainsd on Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
If you are even considering a frame change I would encourage you to
look for an M38 frame.
A restored M38 in any condition is much more desirable and valuable
than a mutt of any kind.
M38 frames are around.
As far as parts, many parts are the same as the CJ3A, and many more
are available for reasonable prices and sometimes at bargain prices
if you are patient. Start a list of needed parts and begin looking. If you have time to look you have good chances of finding what you need for what you want to pay.
That two lever switch if working is a serviceable unit unlike later
ones meant to be throwaways.
Don't forget your brethren here when looking for parts, as you did
with the dash plate.
We all seem to accumulate parts rebuilding these old warriors.
Good hunting,
The two connector light switch is brand new.
I hear you on all of the above. Im an afternoon away from being able to drive it all I want. I guess I can start accumulating parts and rat hole them until I have enough to make the transfer. I thought I had a ling on an M38 chassis for a forum member but he has not been able to get me a shipping quote yet. I know, patience.
I don't think I want to get into hunting the really esoteric stuff like the early scintilla distributer and some of those other "out of this world" parts.
It is funny how mission creep sets in. Originally I was going to bolt it together and use it to explore an abandoned WWII army base near me. Camp Lockett, Last home of the U.S. Calvary Built in WWII and closed shortly after. Some building still stand. I actually rent part of one of the original stable buildings to house and work on my MV projects. Thought Id mark the jeep up for this can unit and use it to rattle around the country side exploreing.
My BAD. That's a problem with the posting page we get here. It does not show the title info of the original post or the signature line of the preceding posts while you are typing a response. So I often loose track of which model jeep we are discussing unless the poster mention the model in the body of his post.
On another note you referred to:
Quote:
early scintilla distributer
The WWII radio jeeps used a Scintilla distributor but all three distributors used on the M38 were the Autolite units. The first was the IAU4004UT (Using the external noise filter) then the IAU4006UT both of which were installed at Willys. The later M38A1 IAU4006AUT became an approved replacement and was added to the 1956 M38 parts parts catalog. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Again, thank you for the clarification. You have the patience of a saint! _________________ '52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car
One of our members had a couple of the IAU4004UT units which would be correct for your jeep. Try searching on google using "IAU4004UT willysmjeeps" _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Forum FAQ
Search
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
