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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - L134 Oil Float Strainer
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L134 Oil Float Strainer

 
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 507
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:01 pm    Post subject: L134 Oil Float Strainer Reply with quote

Not much in the manuals on the oil strainer, except to say "clean thoroughly", which I did by soaking and sloshing it around in a bucket of diesel (which turned black). Is it really clean? Must be.

Nothing on disassembly except to pull the cotter pin and remove the support tube. No joy searching the forum on how to uncover the screen for a look-see.

The sheet metal cover over the screen has four clips holding it on (12-3-6-9 o'clock). It looked like if I carefully bent the one lone tab at 12 o'clock up a little, the other three would come free by tapping the cover to slide off in the opposite direction. Did that, careful not to deform the sheet metal any more than necessary. It popped right off --- and showed me 50 years of black gold....

I'm glad I looked!


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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
1954 M100 Dunbar Kapple M750759 dod 1-54

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 507
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaned up and ready for install when I get my motor back from the machine shop. Had to repair a small hole in the screen with a dab of JBWeld. Maybe not a field repair --- I'm sure a mechanic back in the day would trash the $5.00 part and put in a new one. They're kind of hard to find NOS and are fairly pricey ($50.00). Am I taking a risk?

In some of the CJ forums I read where folks say there's supposed to be an O-ring where the float mates to the support tube. It kind of makes sense to me to have one as the fit without it is a little sloppy slip-fit. But there's no O-ring in the ORD9 that I can find.

http://hainesgarage.proboards.com/thread/999/rebuilding-willys-chain-drive-engine?page=2

I had good oil pressure without an O-ring. And I can imagine that if it disintegrated or came loose it could get sucked into an oil gallery and do bad things.

My question: is there supposed to be an O-ring in there or not?


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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
1954 M100 Dunbar Kapple M750759 dod 1-54

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 14206
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My question: is there supposed to be an O-ring in there or not?


No M38 & M38A1.

No CJ's.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 507
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10-4 Wes, no O-ring. Thanks, wilco.

How about the JBWeld repair on the screen? Ok, or not worth the risk?
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
1954 M100 Dunbar Kapple M750759 dod 1-54

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 2863
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ron if it was me I would try soldering or brazing some screen or even thin sheet rather than use the JB Weld.

That’s just me.

I wouldn’t want that stuff to end up in one of those teensy orifices scattered throughout the engine.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 2863
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heck, you could take some wire the same gauge and weave it in and out like the original and close up the hole, just make sure the pieces are plenty long enough to get safely past the bad part, and maybe bend the ends down.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I second Brian's suggestions.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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charlesfitton
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Joined: Jun 07, 2010
Posts: 62
Location: Maryhill On

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Following your lead, I also disassembled my screen...and found the same horror
The mesh was badly torn up, and so brittle that I wouldn't trust any repair. NO SCREEN would likely be better than that. So I off to the used pile and grabbed a newer one.



Opened it up....also full of gunk, but the screen is sound.

now here's the real problem... where do the openings (in the tin cover) go in relation to the delivery tube?
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M38 CDN 52-30105
M38 CDN 52-30883

and other green crap...
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you review the TM 9-1804A Fig 88 pg 115, Fig 85 Pg 112, Fig 38 Pg 48 (you must look very hard at this one & the next) Fig 36 Pg 46 & Fig 35 Pg 45 it will become very obvious the tiny stand alone retaining tab faces forward and very slightly to the right when installed on the engine.

Another excellent source is the Willys SM1002 Factory CJ Service Manual.


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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charlesfitton
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Location: Maryhill On

PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx again Wes...

The illustrations in the manual that you refer to ( 1804a) are not nearly clear enough to ascertain that detail, I tried.

The M38 a1manual (TM9 - 8015) manual appears to have the openings to the rear...

I'll find a copy of the CJ manual...(I actually LIKE service manuals)

and thanks again.
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M38 CDN 52-30105
M38 CDN 52-30883

and other green crap...
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wesk
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Posts: 14206
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my cataracts removed and new lens about 5 years ago and I am now 20-20 again at the ripe old age of 71. I was able to clearly spot the position of those tabs in all but 2 of the 5 illustrations in the TM 9-1804A manual. The 4th one required some squinting and the 5th one required a magnifying glass.

TM 9-8015-1 is an M38A1 manual and none of it's illustrations actually show the two slots and the small dividing tab.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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charlesfitton
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Posts: 62
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manual - No doubt.

Download - different story
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and other green crap...
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