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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - 1953 M38A1 Dual Shoe Hand Brake
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1953 M38A1 Dual Shoe Hand Brake

 
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Mike_B
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Joined: Dec 10, 2017
Posts: 148
Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:18 pm    Post subject: 1953 M38A1 Dual Shoe Hand Brake Reply with quote

There is a small tab on the side of the Lever that the Dual Shoes attach to...is this tab supposed to be inside the drum or out? I'm thinking in, but with the new shoes it won't go. I'm thinking the new linings are to thick (0.151 or 5/32"). Can anyone confirm what the original shoe thickness is supposed to be?

Is it safe to belt sand them to a thinner thickness?

Thanks,

Mike B Smile
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Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
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wesk
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Posts: 14721
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at page 276 in your M38A1 Operator's Manual you'll see original pad thickness 5/32". I am more inclined to believe your issue is really the geometry not being correct. I would start by rotating the Concentric anchor pin on the mounting plate to increase the slop in the shoes. TM 9-8014 page 288. If you do not have TM 9-8014 then go to our downloads page and download it free.
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zeke57
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Joined: Dec 28, 2017
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Location: Salamanca,NY

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my a1 the metal tab Mike B is referring to is inside the drum and the ebrake functions correctly.
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Mike_B
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Joined: Dec 10, 2017
Posts: 148
Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the page info Wes, I looked in the index and that page didn't show up under "Hand Brake". I also need to look at the anchor pin again, I didn't think it was eccentric, but did see that the stop pin could put pressure on the outer shoe if the anchor pin is rotated.

I wonder if the outer shoe being fully lined has an impact on the adjustment. The original shoe only has 4-rivet holes and looks like it was about 66% lined. Should I cut away the top 1/3 of the new shoe to help with the fit?

Zeke, Thanks for the info, I was thinking it needed to be inside, but the tightness of the shoes wouldn't allow it to go there.

I'll head out to the shop and report back what I find...

Thanks!

Mike B Smile
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Mike B
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Mike_B
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Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on my Dual Shoe issues...

1. My Anchor Pin is not eccentric, the Anchor Stop Pin puts pressure on the shoe when the Anchor Pin is rotated, which changes the shoe gap.

2. Contacted George Baxter (seller of the new shoes) and was told my batch of the outer lining was manufactured full length and should be shortened, he also said the material used might be a little thick. Using my original shoe I could see where the missing lining ended and cut the 1/3 off the new shoe. I then put my drum in the lath with a piece of 220 sand paper glued to the outside and held the shoe to the drum to sand off a few thousands. I did the same for the inner shoe. I can now get the shoes on with the lever tab to the inside, but it's still tight. Note, this is all being done on the bench with just the drum, shoes and lever with the anchor Pin out of the equation.

I think I'm going to reassemble everything the way it is and get the drive train back in the chassis and run it on jack stands to see if I have enough clearance...I need to be sure I don't have a heat issue with the linings dragging on the drum.

I'm always open to comments or suggestions!

I'll follow up again when there's more info to share,

Mike B Smile
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