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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Wiring Harness Packard Connectors
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Wiring Harness Packard Connectors

 
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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 344
Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 4:21 pm    Post subject: Wiring Harness Packard Connectors Reply with quote

I am installing my M38 wiring harness. I have a mix of packard and douglas connectors depending on the switches etc that were available.
I had to replace my oil pressure sender unit and it has packard connectors. Before installing the main wiring harness I fixed a jumper to go from the oil pressure sender unit to the oil pressure gauge with the needed packard connector at the sender.
It has only been on there a few weeks but when I went to remove it upon installing the main wiring harness it was very hard to get the rubber connectors to separate.

My first question is is there something to put on the rubber packard connectors to keep them from sticking together so tightly after time?

My second question is, I have used silicon to help the two rubber connectors to slide together. Is this a problem and when the silicon dries will it cause the condition in question 1.

Thanks
Ralph
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R G Mutchler
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Silicon is ok to lube the Packard rubbers but avoid getting the silicon on the metal contacts. Wit man made rubbers the silicon does not normally dry out and become real sticky.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
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Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks
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R G Mutchler
M274A5
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RonD2
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Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi RG,
I use a dab of this on metal electrical contacts:

https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

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rgmutchler
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ron,
Is this stuff a dielectric grease or is it something different? I see other contact greases that say they are dielectric but the description on the No OX doesn't use that word.

Hope all is well with you and you are getting a lot done while sheltering in place.

Ralph
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RonD2
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RG,
The No-Ox isn't a dielectric grease.

Dielectric grease doesn't conduct electricity, and while lubrication, corrosion prevention, and some water-proofing are also part of its purpose, it's mainly used as an insulator to help prevent electricity from traveling where it's not supposed to go. The best example I know for using dielectric grease is smearing a dab inside of spark plug boots (but not on the metal contact inside the connector or on the metal cap at the top of the spark plug. Doing this helps keeps high voltage spark from traveling outside that connection. There are other uses for dielectric grease but the main thing to remember is don't use it to make good electrical connections. Dielectric is the opposite of a conductor of electricity, it's an insulator. Another good use is the cam inside the distributor.

The No-Ox conducts electricity, so it's used on metal-to-metal joints to help current flow, provide some lubrication to the joint, prevent corrosion, and enhance water-proofing. I use it on battery and ground connections, and the pins and sockets of Douglas and Packard connectors. Also on the spark plug and distributor connections mentioned above. A light smear is enough (a Q-tip helps), meaning you don't want it oozing all over the place (same for dielectric grease). I also use it on multi-pin connectors like the trailer power plug, but only on the pin and socket. Wipe off any that gets on the surrounding rubber. It lasts a long time. Metal joints should be clean and smeared with No-Ox BEFORE assembly.

Dielectric grease is typically used AFTER assembly of metal-to-metal contacts.

Regular grease like in your grease gun also conducts electricity, but tends to ooze, liquify, wash off, or harden over time. The No-Ox is much better at staying only where you put it.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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RonD2
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey RG,
I never tried it, but maybe using a light smear of dielectric grease just on the rubber mating parts of Packard connectors might help when pulling them apart? Dielectric grease has silicone in it (silicone is an electrical insulator). I think I'll give it a try as I noted the same thing you did, that after a while they get tough to pull apart. I usually give them a twist before pulling. Dielectric grease might last longer than a silicone spray.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 344
Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I read the description of the No Ox it talked about it preventing corrosion on metal parts and connectors. I took that as it being an anti-corrosive that could also be used on battery connectors like dielectric grease. I am glad you cleared that up for me, I didn't think dielectric was conductive but got mis-confused looking at the description of the No Ox.

I ordered some On Ox. I think you had mentioned it before because it was on my to buy list on amazon.

Take care
Ralph
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R G Mutchler
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RonD2
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Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RG,
I would only use dielectric grease on the outside of an already assembled battery post terminal and clamp. I wouldn't use it on the post and the inside of the cable clamp and then assemble it that way. The direct metal-to-metal contact would be better off clean and dry or with a little No-Ox than with dielectric silicone grease on it.

I wish they sold No-Ox in a smaller amount. The 8-ounce tube is a lifetime supply and it's a little on the pricey side. I'm still using a tube that I bought long before my M38 got here.

I think the "anti-corrosive" property of any grease (dielectric, regular automotive, or No-Ox) is mainly because it blocks air and water from the connection. Yes, there's some anti-corrosion additives to help pH and dis-similar metal issues, but I think it's mainly keeping water and air out of the connection that keeps corrosion at bay. Just my 2 cents.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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