Transfer case output bearing cap

[Pierre]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my Dana 18 transfer and I'm noticing that the output bearing cap (part where speedo cable ends) seems to be below standard. I'll try to post some pics...Would like your input so let me know what you guys think. If pic doesn't show up click link below to see it.

https://imgur.com/X5N2qFi[/img]


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Pierre H.

full restoration in progress
1952 M38 MC60228

[M38CDNBill]

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Guy aka M38CDNBill
1945 Willys MB
1945 Chevrolet G7107 (in progress)

[Pierre]

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Pierre H.

full restoration in progress
1952 M38 MC60228

[jake138]

If I'm looking at this correctly, the face that is sitting in your hand is where the shim stack will go, and the length that you're questioning is the side that faces out towards the emergency brake hub?

It looks like the end face has been damaged, probably by trying to remove the old seal? Is there enough length left to install a new seal?

This is what that shoulder would look like full length:



Is it safe to assume I'm looking at this correctly or has it already been too long since I rebuilt my D18 that I've completely forgotten how it all goes together...
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627

[Pierre]

Yes Jake that's exactly what I mean, wondering if I get the top machined flat I'll still have enough lenght to put it all back together with new seal.
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Pierre H.

full restoration in progress
1952 M38 MC60228

[jake138]

So I won't be able to give you a length off mine, but I can try to take a look at mine assembled tomorrow and let you know what I think you'll be up against if you face it clean. I'd have to guess that your dimension on the outside is only of consequence to whether or not the dust shield on the yoke will sit low enough to do it's job. Otherwise, as long as your depth from that beat up face to the inside shoulder is enough to support a new seal, you should be fine.
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627

[jake138]

I took a look inside my emergency brake drum and the only thing I could see was that the dust seal on the yoke overhangs that shoulder by a small degree. If you can measure from that end face down into the face where the seal sits, as long as there is enough length left for the seal to fully seat. Measure the thickness of the new seal and as long as you keep that depth greater, then I can't see any reasons why you wouldn't be able to cut that face clean.
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627

[Pierre]

I'll bring it to the machine shop tomorrow to get it faced. I'll try that before buying another one.
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Pierre H.

full restoration in progress
1952 M38 MC60228

[Pierre]

rear transfer bearing cap refaced. Looks much better now, will put it back together in couple weeks after sandblasting and repainting transfer and trany


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Pierre H.

full restoration in progress
1952 M38 MC60228

[jake138]

Looks good! Isn't it a wonderful thing having good access to a machine shop?

I noticed you had a hard time posting your pictures, so I fixed the links for you. Here's a link to the instructions on how to get the proper link for your photos:

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album597&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Happy Jeeping!
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627