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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Location of the original plates on my aftermarket radiator
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Location of the original plates on my aftermarket radiator

 
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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
Posts: 100
Location: Athens, Greece

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 10:10 am    Post subject: Location of the original plates on my aftermarket radiator Reply with quote

Hi all,
Before I replaced my radiator with a good ftermarket one, I kept the two brass labels as on the pictures
1. Where is the correct place on the radiator to install them?
2. They were spot welded on the original radiator, but that is something I’m not sure I can do with my Mig welder. Any other ideas as to how top put them on?

BTW, similar question for the new Data Plate set I got for my dashboard. I received along with them a rivet set, but the rivets are too short to be ‘pinched’ in place on the master plate. Should I epoxy them in place or what esle?
Once more, Thanks again!
Aris


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Aris
Willys M38
1936 Cord Phaeton
1954 Mercury Monterey
1968 Corvette Stingray
1973 Mercedes 350SE
1974 Montesa Cota 247T
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
Posts: 1609
Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Location of the original plates on my aftermarket radia Reply with quote

arisLgr wrote:
BTW, similar question for the new Data Plate set I got for my dashboard. I received along with them a rivet set, but the rivets are too short to be ‘pinched’ in place on the master plate. Should I epoxy them in place or what else?

Hi Aris,
The ORD9 manual calls for 1/8-inch by 1/8-inch rivets. Is that what your vendor supplied?
If yes, maybe you have too many layers of old paint on your master plate?
If no, maybe return them to the vendor for a refund?
Tubular rivets of different sizes (and the proper tool to fix them) are pretty commonly available.

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/RA2022.html

I wouldn't epoxy them in place, but that's just my opinion.

Good luck!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
Posts: 100
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epoxy is the way, returning parts from overseas just doesn't pay. I plan to spray them as well with brass clear spray so they stay bright thanks Ron!
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Aris
Willys M38
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wesk
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Posts: 15855
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why don't you simply go to your local hardware store and buy 24 rivets of the closest correct length & diameter and install them using their own standard tooling. Metric rivets will cause no harm and the dash plates will look naturally stock.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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BBDE
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Joined: Mar 05, 2008
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Location: Berlin Germany

PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the same experience with the rivets from a M38A1 dataplate set a few years ago.
At first glance, the data plates looked very good.
But even when removing the protective film, some of the color came off with it.
What can you expect for 40 €uro.
But otherwise they look good and are etched, so that the damage could be repaired with some black paint and sandpaper.
The rivets were also 1 millimeter too short, which I immediately told the dealer and two rivets were missing from the bag.
The dealer sent me another complete set of rivets, again the ones that were too short, because he couldn't get any that would have been a millimeter longer either.
It's not that easy here in Europe to find rivets in the right dimensions, because the dealers (especially local dealers, but Internet insn't better) don't have such rivets in their product range and don't want to get 24 pieces for someone once.
If you press the plates correctly onto the carrier and press the rivets correctly, then that's just enough for you to bead enough on the back so that the data plates holds.
At least it worked for me.

Frank
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jake138
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.hansonrivet.com/quote/

Great company to work with, located in California but it's worth requesting a quote if you're having a hard time sourcing rivets.
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RonD2
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 7:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Location of the original plates on my aftermarket radia Reply with quote

arisLgr wrote:
Hi all,
Before I replaced my radiator with a good aftermarket one, I kept the two brass labels as on the pictures
1. Where is the correct place on the radiator to install them?
2. They were spot welded on the original radiator,

Hi Aris,
I guess I'm confused.
You say that before you replaced your radiator you kept your brass tags that you found spot welded to your old radiator.
I'm guessing you know where you found them?

If yes, why ask where is the "correct place" to install them?
Maybe I'm missing something. Shocked
Why not install them in the same place on your replacement radiator that you found them on the original?
(Except if somebody else made it, the tags would be misleading (false).

By the way, I couldn't find that ORD number 7371375 in the M38 ORD9, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything.
It could be the core assembly of the radiator.
Are you certain those tags came from a M38 radiator?

Why not skip the spot welds and epoxy them too?

I believe I have an original M38 radiator.
I looked all over it for those tags with no joy.
Unless maybe they're under the shroud.
Couldn't find any post in this forum showing those tags either.
Maybe I missed it. There's always a "first".

I'd be interested in Wes' opinion on this topic.
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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wesk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is because the radiator is actually off a WWII jeep (MB/GPW).

https://www.parttarget.com/2930-00-737-1375_2930007371375_640145.html
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, Rivets epoxyed in place, so that is OK

Radiator Labels:
The History: The radiator that came on the car when I got it 1973 died on me last summer. Pressed with time, I was lucky to find one here in Europe; at the time it looked very much like the one I had but I have no idea if it is made for the M38 or the MB as in northern Europe there are many-many MB’s around and few M38’s. It has to do with the 6-6-1945 D-day celebrations held every year in Normandy. Our local Military Vehicle club many times take part in the parades there, driving all the way from here.

Before throwing the bad one away, I cut-off the piece from it with the labels on it. I should have taken a picture to help me relocate where I cut it off, but I did not Sad I only know it was from the the LH vertical side.

Here is the piece I cut off with the plates spot welded on it. I could not find a similarly shapad place on the new radiator, the piece has a Bent on it, whereas the new radiator has only square corners. (hope that makes sense...)

[/img]http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album772/Resized_PXL_20220623_080615521.sized.jpg[img]

here the new radiator and the plates should go somewhere here[/img]http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album772/PXL_20220621_145207438.sized.jpg[img]

Now if as Wes wrote the plates come from an MB and there is no evidence our M38’s having brass labes, there is no point putting them on , as I would be monkeying-up my set up. I strive for originality as much as I can!



P.S. Question, can I set up my forum profile to receive email notifications for new activity on my posts? [/img]
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Aris
Willys M38
1936 Cord Phaeton
1954 Mercury Monterey
1968 Corvette Stingray
1973 Mercedes 350SE
1974 Montesa Cota 247T
1982 Kubota B7100
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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
Posts: 100
Location: Athens, Greece

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album772&id=Resized_PXL_20220623_080615521&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php[/img]



[img]http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album772&id=PXL_20220621_145207438&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php[/img]

Apologies again, please bear with me, I'm way better fixing the M38 but age hinders in both...
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Aris
Willys M38
1936 Cord Phaeton
1954 Mercury Monterey
1968 Corvette Stingray
1973 Mercedes 350SE
1974 Montesa Cota 247T
1982 Kubota B7100
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arisLgr
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Joined: Dec 25, 2016
Posts: 100
Location: Athens, Greece

PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I give up, the pics are in my album here http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album772&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Aris
Willys M38
1936 Cord Phaeton
1954 Mercury Monterey
1968 Corvette Stingray
1973 Mercedes 350SE
1974 Montesa Cota 247T
1982 Kubota B7100
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