Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:00 pm Post subject: Crack hunting!
OK shortly I'll be stripping my M38 engine.
The only known problems I have with the block are that one of the head stud threads is stripped in the block, a thin crack behind the distributor and ........
it has a crack someplace inside the block that (occasionally) allows water into the oil. Try as I might with the sump off, rocker cover off etc I have never been able to spot the actual crack.
More might come to light once I have it stripped but for the time being I need to know what machine shop techniques are there that I could try and ask for that might show up an internal crack in the block.
Dave, my engine setup under a plastic bag for two years before it was installed and test ran. After the first run just sitting in the frame I had and oil leak in the rear seal. I removed it from the frame and transmission and took it back to the rebuilder and he had to put in another seal.
I got it back home and onto the frame and transmission and did another test run. The oil leak was fixed. but this time I notice a bubble under neath the paint behind the distributor on the block and just below where the head and block meet just about where the head stud screws in the block.
I cleaned it off and took photos of it and carried them back to the rebuilder to show him the crack. He claimed they checked the block for cracks, but this crack must have gotten pass them.
So he tells me to leave it on the frame and bring it back to him and he would have it repaired. So I trailered it all back and he had a shop he works with pin and stitch the crack and install a longer stud.
I knew before hand straight out whom I was going take my engine to when I started the restoration. A shop whom has been in business since the 40's. A son of the original owner who is now in his seventies. My dad did business with them. I had a lot of confidence in the mans reputation and ability to do a good job on my engine. He did took care of all the problems at his expense yet I had to do a lot of extra work too.
The shop owner has his son in law working with him doing most of the work I do believe.
I could have rebuilt the engine myself, but I don't have machines to rebore a grind back to spec so that's why I had someone else do it.
I guess it all depends on the individual fella who has his hands on your stuff as to how it's gonna turn out.
Those were the issues I had after the initial job. It didn't cost any money other than gas money to go back three times and extra work on my part.
When you take your engine to an engine machine shop I would suggest that before you go, make a list so you don't forget what you want them to do. Don't assume that they are going to do what you think they will do. Ask them what their process in the rebuild includes, Like magnflux for cracks, acid dip or treat the block and head to get the rust out. And please please put plenty of rebuild lube in the important places because you don't know when it is going to be started and ran.
You can also wait to take the engine in for rebuild when you think you are ready to install it to run when you get it back though.
Anyway that was my experience I have 500 miles on it now and the first oil change and no leaks.
Ken _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
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