Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 5:25 pm Post subject: Steering wheel repair
It's time to repair the cracks in my M38 steering wheel. I've seen several suggestions as to what is best to use - JB Weld, epoxy etc and was wondering how these fixes have held up over time. Can anyone who has repaired their steering wheels shed some light on the long term (a couple years at least) results? _________________ Tony Morreale
Franklin, TN
Joined: Apr 18, 2005 Posts: 458 Location: Rhode Island
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 7:35 am Post subject: epoxy
I have repaired 3 steering wheels with PC-7 waterproof epoxy paste purchased from True Value for $8. You can buy the same epoxy from Eastwood for 3x the price in their steering wheel restoration kit.
Wheel 1 - black rubber GPW = 12 years still ok
Wheel 2 - M38 green - mixed in a little OD enamel with the paste to make the epoxy blend better with the green - about 5 years still ok
Wheel 3 - M38 - Small cracks are still ok but one crack was 1/4" wide and it looks like the edges may be separating a little. Its still solid.
Be sure to clean in and around the cracks with acetone or MEK (do it outside with ventilation) and a toothbrush. Sand the wheel with fine sandpaper so that the edges on each side of the crack mate. Use masking tape to tape the cracks to that you are not spreading epoxy where it does not need to go. Remember you want to fill cracks not blend epoxy onto the outside of the steering wheel. Taking your time with the tape will save a lot of time with the finishing.
The PC7 is a paste that works well and holds shape if you don't have to put it on too thickly. Work your epoxy/paint mix into the crack as deeply as you can using toothpicks.
Remove the tape while the epoxy is still uncured and let everything cure overnight. After cureing, sand the epoxy down to meet the level of the steering wheel plastic/rubber then blend your repair using #600 and finer sandpaper to polish the plastic and epoxy. You can also try wet sanding. If you have to do a second batch to fill some low spots be sure to retape.
Dont be too picky when mixing your paint into the epoxy, you wont get the color perfect. The less paint you use the stronger the epoxy. Just add a little pigment to change the epoxy from gray to green. You will still be able to see the repaired spot but when blended they are hardly noticable. Good luck with the repair.
Joined: Jan 09, 2010 Posts: 143 Location: Nashua NH
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:56 pm Post subject:
I also have had great success using PC7 epoxy.When I did my M38 steering wheel last year there were several large cracks in the usual places .I gouged out the cracks using a Dremel with a V bit.Followed Tom's prep method,and found the epoxy has lots of working time.I also, carefully used a heat gun, which can turn the epoxy towards a liquid if desired,without changing the cure time.My final sanding was with 00 steel wool.
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