1952 M38A1 tranny/clutch/eng Pic Heavy-Does this look right?

ChiGuy82 · Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 41

Hey guys,
I asked a few days ago about my bellhousing and clutch. I just wanted to know what you guys think of how I did and if I have to do anythng else before I can attach the engine to the transmission and put it on my frame? If you can't see something, just let me know and I will take a picture of it.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

hill

The one main thing that I can see is that even though you have what looks like a plastic bag on the engine it is still a very good idea to have all of the holes such as the intake ,thermostat housing ,spark plug holes distributor housing and any other holes ether taped shut or rags or other means of closing up every thing because it is very easy to drop a nut or bolt or something else that could be very harmful to your engines health and also mice and other critters like to make homes in such places as intakes and exhaust ports and the like. I only say this out of personal experience from years of working on vehicles. Smile

wesk · Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:45 pm Post subject:

You'll find it easier to install the exhaust studs and the eaxhaust manifole before you drop it in. Same with the oil filter line behind the fuel pump and the fuel pump.

Bagging is always a must do.

_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Yarder · Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:58 pm Post subject:

PUt the rubber protector on the clutch release cable before you install it too. The rubber will also help stabilize the cable during the installation process.

I put the rubber on AFTER it was installed and the cable dislodged from the fork, and then that was a totally involved project when the fork dropped. The FIRST time I had it out, we also put a loose string loop over the clutch cable and the fork to prevent the two from coming apart.

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Looks nice.

X2 on covering the ports on the engine ASAP.

Your civvy distributor may not clock the same as a military one so if you plan on switching plan on pulling the oil pump to get it to time. Much easier to do with the engine out.

Did you get a new felt seal for the input shaft on the tranny? Very cheap and simple investment while the tranny is out.

Make sure you change your pilot bearing and check the fit with an extra input shaft. Properly prep your pilot bearing as Wes has described many times.

Chase all threads on remaining bolt holes (if required) with tap before installation.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

ChiGuy82 · Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 41

Awesome!! Thanks Guys! Thanks Wes for the pictures! Hey, 53A1, where do you get those felt seals from and where do you put it since I cant find it in the M38A1 manual...? Yarder, the rubber clutch seal is the black rubber boot that goes on the outside of the bellhousing, right?
Thanks again,
Mike

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

http://walcks4wd.com/oil-seal-main-drive-gear-t-90.html

#43

_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

rdsar2k · Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:12 am Post subject: flywheel bushing

Did you install a new flywheel bushing? Dont see it in the pics.
_________________
1955 M170
1980 JD 450C
1948 Ford 8N
2008 Rubicon Unlimited MyGig

wesk · Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:18 pm Post subject:

A word of caution on thread cleaning or chasing. Use a thread chaser not a tap. A tap will remove more metal making the threads a looser fit and increasing the risk of bolts backing out over time.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Yarder · Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:12 pm Post subject:

skyjeep50 · Member Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois

Ditto everything that has been mentioned so far, especially Wes's comment on the proper lift bracket - makes it easy to install the engine and trans as a unit.

I would also add any item that is attached to the engine such as carb and crosstube, starter, generator, fan and belts, engine mounts, radiator and hoses, vent and fuel lines, spark plug wires and plugs. Get the distributor rough timed using the timing indicators (mark on 5 before TDC and points just opening). It is so much easier to work on adding accessories and fixtures when the engine is on a benchtop or the floor than when it is in the jeep. The engine, trans and all accessories were made to pull out and install as an entire assembly. One thing you will have to remove first is the shifters unless you are going to be dropping the body on the jeep after the engine.

To save a little weight you could add lubricants and coolant after you have the engine installed.

Good luck with your install!
_________________
1951 M38


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