View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:42 am Post subject: Combat Rim Repair Repaint etc... |
|
|
Ok guys, this seems like there should be about 15 threads on this... but, not seeing it.
So, help me out. total, I'm looking at doing up to 7 total combat rims. 4 on the Jeep, one spare, and 2 on the M100 I just picked up.
I'm looking to do a full strip, repaint, etc...
I was thinking about powder coating them to maintain the paint for a longer term. Is this a viable option? Has anyone else done it? what kind of cost was there? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16267 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
I assume you know that combat 2 piece rims were not used on the M38/M38A1/M170. Powder coating will inhibit your ability to spot cracks when they show up around the bolt holes. Those two piece combat rims were not certified with 7.00-16 rubber. Cleaned up and properly painted for WWII jeep and trailer they would bring you almost $200 a wheel. That comes out to about $1400 you can buy actual M38/M100 stuff with. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:39 am Post subject: |
|
|
This is what all mine look like...
the two on the trailer are much worse for wear. they all have the small offset hole in them. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wtb853 Member
Joined: Mar 04, 2010 Posts: 37 Location: Kalispell, Montana
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
The term "combat rims (wheels)" refers to the two piece wheels that came on MBs/GPWs which allowed for tire changes in the field without specialized tools. The wheel in your picture appears to be the standard issue 7.00X16 that came on M38s.
As for powder coating, how important is color to you (OD, etc.)? There are a variety of colors, but I don't know that any shop could match OD 2430 green exactly if you are after a military correct restoration. _________________ 1951 M38 (MC25486) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ahh.... that's where the glitch comes in. I presumed Combat Rim referred generally to the military style rims, not the split piece...
Color... as long as I can get close, I'd be happy. I'm not working on a factory perfect truck. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RICKG Member
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
My experience w/powder coat is that the gloss is typically
higher than semi-gloss-just my 2 cents.. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Im not a fan of powdercoating. It tends to hold up till it starts flaking off in big chunks. By that time, rust has migrated everywhere under it. Paint will show its defects and is cheaper. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Bretto, good to know. Would the solution of ensuring that it gets media (sand or similar) blasted and then powdercoated, the whole rim at once, solve that problem? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
evanso1975 Member
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Have to agree with Bretto here. Powder coating is great as long as it remains intact. All you need is the smallest of holes in it and the water just walks right in as if it owned the place. I've seen this happen first hand on brand new steel furniture and also aluminium flashings for buildings. That's new metal that's been professionally blasted and degreased by the powder coating folks.
This might be of interest:
http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/powder-coating-sucks.html
P.S. Dad ran the GPW on the road for 20 years with just red oxide primer and 3 or 4 coats of OD on the wheels. Never had a problem in the good old UK weather (we're not really a popular sunshine destination!). Used to leave it parked on the side of a busy main road too.
Good luck, whatever coating system you decide to use....... _________________ Owen
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jimm Member
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 199 Location: Escondido, CA
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Bretto wrote: | Im not a fan of powdercoating. It tends to hold up till it starts flaking off in big chunks. By that time, rust has migrated everywhere under it. Paint will show its defects and is cheaper. |
I'll third that opinion. My recommendation is to strip, rust convert, then use epoxy primer such as PPG DPLF or TCP Global's KEP-DTM http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspepoprime.aspx and top coat with your choice of paint. _________________ Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
|
Back to top |
|
|
oilleaker1 Member
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Forget powdercoating around wheeled applications. To apply it, you must be absolutely clean to bare metal, no rust etc. There is no sealer or primer under it. That's why, if chipped, it rusts underneath terribly. It's very hard and expensive to get back off whether you like it or not. It thins where metal is rivited or jointed and rusts there first. Once rust starts, you are screwed. It is nothing more than melted plastic paint. It is cheap to apply and costs more to get back off than most items cost new. I am a blaster, and can attest to all this first hand. Epoxy primer/sealer first, then apply your choice of paint. A winning combination. John |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
and this is why I asked. Thanks for the input.
As to blasting... sand blast? or some other media? the rims on the jeep have already been done once, but the spots where the lug nuts are have either removed or otherwise allowed the undercoats to show. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
oilleaker1 Member
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Plastic media or soda removes paint and primer delicately, but not rust. If you have rust showing or possible, use a fine sand. To get a nice smooth gloss, sand the (sandable) primer smooth before applying the top coat of color with at least 360 grit, 600 being the best. Just the outside face. You more than likely will have rust inside the rim and getting it off for better tube life is important. Rims also have a habit of having rust around the valve stem hole. Soda requires washing with a acidic solution to kill the base. Acid primers react bad to it. Paint will not stick to the film. I use either sand or plastic. Hope this helps. John |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bikemancs Member
Joined: Sep 05, 2011 Posts: 49 Location: Fayettenam, NC
|
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
John it does, thanks. I will have to sandblast the 2 trailer rims for sure. I'll have to see how bad the others are, but I imagine the time for 2 rims won't differ too much than 7 rims since they're so small. (?) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
TomM Moderator
Joined: Apr 18, 2005 Posts: 458 Location: Rhode Island
|
Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:06 am Post subject: powerdercoat |
|
|
agreed with the 'dont powerdercoat' crowd. In the snow belt rust will form under the plastic coating and grow undereith. Then finally the plastic will fall off and show you a big rusty damaged wheel. Powerdercoating holds the water in as well as keeps it out. Its like immersing your freshly sandblasted parts in a tupperwear container full of salt water.
For blasting the wheels are not delicate so black beauty or any other fast cut will work and it will be tough to damage them. Coat with epoxy primer and your choice of any topcoat. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|