Create an account Home  ·  ·  Forums  ·  ·  Articles  ·  ·  Downloads  ·  ·  Photo Gallery  
Login
Nickname

Password

Don't have an account yet? You can create one here.

Navigation
· Home
· Article Archive
· Article Submit
· Downloads
· FAQ
· Forums
· Members List
· Photo Gallery
· Private Messages
· Web Links
· Your Account

Search Articles



Forums

Compression testing results.
Rear brake cyclinder compatability
T90 inspection before action?
M38 Radio Power Cable/Connector
Wanted to buy - C-375/VRC
Battery cut off in motor compartment?
Cross Member Radiator Tabs
WTB M38 distributor breaker plate tabs
Hodakaguy M38 Misc Thread
1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter

Willys M Jeeps Forums


willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Hood
 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   UsergroupsUsergroups   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Hood

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:53 am    Post subject: Hood Reply with quote

Correct me if I'm wrong but it is my understanding that the M38 hood is built identical to the 2A and 3A models other than the no Willys script, slave cable & fording cut out, and the blackout light cable indent. It may help me in trying to locate a replacement that I could then fab it over to a M38 look-alike.
Sadly I found no hood #'s but I did find a pound of bondo and a bunch of dents and major oil canning. At this point I dont know what my plans will be for this hood. It has some brazing along the center seam, it twist like crazy, the passenger cut outs are horribly bubba covered. Only thing going for it, it sits square and flat on the fender edges when I place it on the ground. I may have to, if I cant find a replacement, replace the bad sections add some reinforcements to stop the twst and to tame the oil canning.
Did the center seam have welds only at the fore and aft or was there also one in the center?
What a mess.
Brett
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
evanso1975
Member


Joined: May 10, 2010
Posts: 615
Location: North Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the hood off my M38 (there's a bigger photo in the gallery on page 9 of the "member albums"):

Although the hood was blasted by a PO there were traces of strata blue & OD on the inside of the hood, so I'm pretty sure it's the original one off my M38. As you can see, only the front & rear edges have weld on them. The center seam is spot-welded. The problem with that center seam is mud & water sits in it, and over time the rust build-up pops the spot welds.

I'm guessing that the hood off the WW2 jeeps would fit too........

Owen.
_________________
Owen

1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks nice.
I'll post some pics of my mess tonight.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
RICKG
Member


Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got an orig M-38 hood here thats sandlbasted, oil canned and
cut but the edges and slave/fording cutouts are clean.. It might be of
use for sections to patch another hood with. You can have it for scrap
price but ya gotta come and get it..
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PM'd ya Rick
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
jimbob
Member


Joined: Jul 24, 2010
Posts: 30

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brett,

I have a hood of a CJ2A civ Jeep in good shape. Has been sand blasted .
Sell for $60.00 plus shipping cost.

Jim
501-329-0980
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its hard to tell sometimes from pictures. These pictures don't do it justice (in a bad way). Or should I say they do do it justice. All those areas cleaned out areas are mostly oil canning that previous owner filled in. He also had welded a 1/4" rod across the front edge. Well I cut it off, the front rolled wire edge is broke and the hole hood wants flop around like a bird flapping its wings. And yes that is a 1/4" of Bondo, it came from the top surface.





_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jimbob.
Sent you a PM.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
whydahdvr
Member


Joined: Jul 18, 2008
Posts: 639
Location: Melrose, MA and Santa Fe, NM

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question for my own curiosity: What do you mean by "oilcan" on the hood? Did the previous owner use the metal from a metal oil can to fill in bad sections?
Just curious. Thanks.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its when there are stresses like stretched or shrinked areas put into a sheet of metal that causes ever so slight different thicknesses. The stress has to give somewhere and it shows up as waves or dents and causes the panel to pop in and out or be warped. This can be caused by a number of things like an impact causing it to stretch or by heat to just one spot causing it to expand then contract irregularly.
I hope I made sense.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base All times are GMT - 6 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Powered by phpBB © 2001 phpBB Group
Forums ©

 



PHP-Nuke Copyright © 2005 by Francisco Burzi. This is free software, and you may redistribute it under the GPL. PHP-Nuke comes with absolutely no warranty, for details, see the license.