Joined: Nov 22, 2006 Posts: 36 Location: Van Wych, SC
Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:17 pm Post subject: Water Droplets on Oil Level Gauge - Part 2
After much testing and research, I found that the water I detected in the oil and on the oil level gauge came from leaks in the cylinder head gasket. I have since dismantled the top of the engine and pulled the cylinder head.
Upon inspection, I had lots of water and oil mixed within the gasket and on the top of the engine block. Also, the cylinder head has a slight arch in the center of about a +1/64th of an inch. I have a machine shop looking at it now to machine it flat before I reinstall it with the new copper gasket. Also, I am installing all new studs and nuts.
Lastly, I pulled the valve cover and dropped the oil pan and oil skimmer, to do a proper cleaning of the interior of the engine.
Questions:
Now I have everything apart...am I missing anything...?
Does anyone have any tips to add before I put everything back together...?
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:27 pm Post subject:
Check valve guides and cam. My exhaust valve guides are cracking apart (mine is an f head, but yours has guides too) and the fuel pump lobe is worn down causing a few problems - would have been alot easier to fix these while it was out. Now it will have to be done over the winter. _________________ Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:49 am Post subject:
I would pull and clean the oil pickup screen for the oil pump by removing the crimped on cover carefully. Seems most builders never did that. ALL of mine were full of crud you could not see under the cover. Antifreeze also eats bearings. Did it run long? You might take a look at a bearing or two. I would also put a all fiber head gasket in. The Felpro steel/fiber one has caused a problem for two of us now. Even with a planed block and head! Also, bring your engine up to operating temp. , shut it off and immediately re-torque the head bolts. John
Joined: Nov 22, 2006 Posts: 36 Location: Van Wych, SC
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:53 pm Post subject:
As a postscript to my last posting, my M38 is running again. I re-installing the head gasket and head, re-assembly the engine per the manual, and torqued the head bolts as outlined. After double checking my work, I hooked up the batteries and open the fuel shut off valve. It started on the first crank. It was a great end of a very long day.
Using my laser thermometer, I found the engine temperatures are all well within the nominal range of +120 F leaving the radiator and 150 to 160 F entering the radiator. Also, the engine block temps are running +140 F at the bottom of the block to +200 F on the head where the intake/exhaust valves are located inside the head,
After a warm up, I re-torqued the head bolts as outlined and addressed some minor leaks in the radiator hoses connections. The engine runs so much better now, cleaner, and with more power, it has exposed the fact I need a tune up of the carburetor and check the timing. I get some misfiring after a high speed rev of the engine. I have a friend coming over to help with the work. I will cost me a Jeep ride.
Lastly, after several test drives, I have no water loss from the radiator, or oil loss from the crankcase. The oil has no water in it and looks as clean as when I poured it into the engine.
I want to thank everyone who has posted on this particular problem and help we with their comments. The information on this site adds to what the manuals detail, and make the difference in getting the repair done right.
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