It depends on what you consider better. The epoxy primer is great over bare metal as it has excellent adhesion. With epoxy you have a limited time frame you can spray (top coat, fill primer, etc. ) over it otherwise you will have to let it dry completely and then scuff it. Epoxy primer is an excellent rust preventative.
If you use the epoxy primer, follow the directions on the can very closely. You will have to mix the two parts then set it aside for a directed amount of time to let it activate before you spray it.
Red oxide primer is fair, but doesn't have the great benifits that a 2-part primer has to offer. The oxide primer is not a good rust preventative as your metal can rust right through the primer. But, it is the correct color under your OD if you are doing an accurate restoration.
The only way folks will see the primer under your OD is if your OD chips or you miss painting a spot. If you are really concerned about having the red oxide under your OD you might consider making the first coat epoxy primer then toping that with the red oxide.
PPG makes ther DP40 epoxy rust preventative primer available in a "red" color that is similar to the red oxide color. I used it on my project.
_________________ Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010
Joined: Apr 03, 2005 Posts: 271 Location: Chester County, PA
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 3:01 pm Post subject:
I used a product called POR-15. Its an extremely rust preventive paint and adheres super well to any and all kinds of metal. It stands for Paint Over Rust-15 -- since thats what it was originally marketed for, but let me tell you, if you put POR-15 on all your parts after stripping all the old paint and rust, you will not have any problems with rust. Ever.
After the POR-15, I applied the red primer, then OD. I've had a few incidents where I accidently dropped parts onto a concrete floor, and the od would chip with the red, but the POR-15 still stays on there. This stuff is so hard that it would toast any and all paintbrushes I used EVEN if I cleaned them and left them in a can of laquer thinner.
If you want to believe their marketing, they say POR-15 actually strengthens its bond to the metal more when exposed to moisture. I first questioned this, but let me tell you, right now I'm throughly impressed with the product and have no reason to believe otherwise.
It's fairly expensive stuff....somewhere around 100$ for a gallon, but you don't need that much. I painted basically everything (engine, misc body parts, body tub, hood, etc) at this point with my HVLP gun and still have over a half a gallon left. Real easy to apply on, requires no thinning.
I've heard good things about epoxy, but I found POR-15 to be easier. _________________ Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
who makes por and where can you buy it. i`am not goin for show just hate fighting rust. i guess i`ll check prices and see which way to go. thanks for the info. _________________ keep on jeepin
This was posted about POR on another site I visit........................
A couple cautions when using POR-15.
It flows very well when applied with a brush. If you spray it, you must use an Isocyanate safe mask. That stuff can kill you if you're not careful. Its the same stuff that’s in modern BC/CC paint systems and there's a reason professional painters use a fresh air breathing system. Doesn't matter if you brush or spray make sure you're in a well-ventilated area. I sprayed my entire chassis outside in my driveway and still used a charcoal mask.
Second if you strip the rust and don't use metal prep, don't ***** if it flakes off in a year or two. The instructions are very specific on this point.
Last, it is sensitive to UV light and will "chalk" if constantly exposed to it. If you're going to use it on something that will be in the sun you'll have to top coat it with auto paint.
Oh yea, someone mentioned gloves. Use them. Once this stuff gets on your hands you can't get it off.
POR-15 like he said, is nasty stuff. Make sure you have a positive pressure mask, or make one. I bought a nice normal mask from the store, drilled two holes in it, ran some plastic tubbing, and violla, hook it up to the air compressor and I have a positive pressure mask.
As for the metal prep, if you media blast / sand blast, or perhaps sanding, so long as its not super super fine, you really dont need to use it. Make sure the surface is super clean though. You can use their product specially designed for cleaning purposes (which I think is just a plain ole' degresser). I used that for a little bit of it, but I've also found out laquer thinner or a solvent like that will do just as well as taking the grime off. All the metal prep does is etch away at the metal to give POR-15 a stronger grip. You get the same effect with a sand blasted / media blasted / or sanded surface. If you wirebrushed the metal, however, I would advise on using the metal prep. _________________ Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
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