43 8 is the ratio. 43 teeth on the ring gear and 8 teeth on the pinion gear. 43 divided by 8 = 5.375 or more commonly written as 5.38:1.
Rear axles. Left WWII MB model 23-2 full floater and Right M38 Model 44 semi-floater _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 1:18 pm Post subject: Fuel tank
So today I pulled my old varnished tank out that I found through
another board member. The welds and sheet look pretty good ,
but there is a lot of varnish in the bottom. Might be what has
preserved the bottom steel.
I removed the vent and sender tops. The sender is a disaster.
The filter is gone. Digging around in the tank I found a misshapen
mass that appears to have some fine brass screen in it. Filter?
The vent top came off along with the ring the screws go into.
Goodie. I was hoping for a major cleanup and back in service
but it looks like I need a trip to a rad shop to reattach the screw
ring. They'll have to clean it, so might as well have them check
it for leaks.
In any case it is still a good deal over a repop so am grateful
for the tank. Information is not the only thing our members
provide to each other.
Joined: Jul 24, 2014 Posts: 80 Location: Fort Bliss Texas
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:23 pm Post subject:
I'm pulling my hair out with my tank too, It's an original M38 but it's rusted internally and there's a few holes. I cleaned the rust up by filling it with vinegar and changing out the vinegar over a few days. BUT the holes I patched started to leak again... My filter and pick up tube are also almost garbage, but I'm going to fix what I can and work with it.
I was tired of crawling around under and around the jeep so decided to work on something else for a change. One nice thing about this hobby? is if you become tired or bored with one aspect there is always something else to do!
Someone suggested a while back to tackle excess Bondo and paint with a propane torch. Fired mine up on Tuesday and let me tell you that thing works like a charm! Kind of like soldering, keep the heat movig forward and you can just scrape the stuff off!
On the left rear I found Bondo, several coats of primers and paint, and up high...this:
Gents, that is a repair made with lead. Old. School. Read about it many years ago in custom hot rods and car mags, but never seen it.
Spent a few hours cleaning most of the grille, or guard as it's called, then shot it with some self etching primer. Wow. That can give one some serious inspiration!
I am going with a voltmeter, and a mechanical oil pressure gauge for now. I bought an original temperature sender from Brent Mullins for the resistor equipped temp gauge I bought from RJF, and am going to try it as an experiment. We'll see.
Still need speedo pointer, glass, and counter wheels, the two clips that go on the back of the speedo, and a fuel gauge. And replace all of the wires on the lights. I primed the back to prevent rust down the road. I will ground everything to a couple of wires attached to the cowl as per Wes' suggestion.
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1740 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:03 pm Post subject:
Nice work on the lamp guards Brian.
I may have a spare 5 wire spider harness for your gauges if you need it. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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