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1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter
Transfer Case rebuild issues
Zerks causing trouble.
1952 M38 converting to 12V
M38A1 Slave Bucket location
M274 A3 Mule For Sale
flywheel advice
conversion from a 12 volt system back to a 24 volt system
M151 A2 + M416 Trailer For Sale
M38 ignition points condensor

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1950 M38 find
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this comes under the heading of never throw anything away.
Today, in spite of 100 degree weather I managed to get that 1/8"
pipe plug out of the block behind the fuel pump. It turned out to be
the easier of the two things I needed to get done. The second was
removing a steel line running from the oil filter back and around the
firewall and down, tying in via a tee to where the oil pressure sender
goes. This was Bubba's oil supply line.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=album372&id=Jeep_photos_021_resize&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

I ended up having to hacksaw the tubing x pipe thread fitting off the tee
as it was not coming off. Once it was cut I was able to unthread the
tee and then the elbow. And then that steel line came off.

I went to the hardware store for new fittings and in a weird moment I thought
about that steel line. I came home and pulled up the Ord 9 G740 and
turned to the fuel section. Huh. The line from the tank elbow to the
fitting just forward of the firewall is line, steel, 1/4" od with double flare
fittings. 50" long.

I just checked. That line on the bench is 50" long, 1/4" od.

Bubba replaced the oil supply line with the long fuel line probably
around the time the M38 tank was replaced with a CJ tank.

Never throw anything away.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Under the heading "Surprise waiting"....

I'm finally tearing everything down getting ready to pull my tranny/transfer/bellhousing to get at the clutch. The throw out
bearing is junk, that much I can see from the inspection port.

I've had a leak between the tranny/bellhousing that was nice,
clean golden oil that felt sticky on my fingers. I was hoping that
was clean gear oil. No oil coming from the bell housing drain
hole. I had changed the motor oil but had not even pulled a tranny
or transfer plug because of so much gunk and grime.

After I pulled the companion flange u joint I remembered
I needed to drain the tranny and transfer. Pulled the transfer
drain plug and grey zombie blood came out. Oh, great.

Wait, wasn't there something about some combos not
having a pass through port between the tranny/transfer?
Crossing my fingers I pulled the tranny drain plug.

C#%p.

So, in spite of no oil coming from the bell housing
drain hole it looks like I have yet another unpleasant
surprise waiting for me once I separate the bell
housing from the block.

Goodie.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:42 am    Post subject: driveline Reply with quote

So,
Non-functioning clutch caused by presumably bad throwout bearing.

Inspection through port:



http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album372/clutch_resize.sized.jpg

No bueno. Clutch fingers ground off, bearing wobbling on shaft.
Drained T90 & D18, gray zombie blood came out.
Again, no bueno.

Tearing down the T90 and finding wear in the usual places, then this. Bent it getting it out, but its trash.



http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album372/Washer_resize_001.sized.jpg


Which leads to this:



http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album372/Case_resize.sized.jpg

That's terminal.


Sadly, there is plenty of life left in that clutch. Springs are loose as can be expected, but plenty of material.



http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album372/clutch.sized.jpg

So, throwout bearing went out, probably because of Bubba resting his foot on the pedal while driving on the ranch. The clutch won't work so he just ground off the fingers trying to get it to engage. That won't work, so he just began shifting or trying to shift without a clutch, grinding off the edges of the gears and shift forks, which led to metal shavings in the oil, which led to destroying the thrust washers and terminally scoring the case.

Good work even for Bubba.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Received my care package from Peter DeBella for my T90.
One thing about NOS parts are you do have to take the time
to clean the cosmolene. Still, a thrill to put parts back in nearly
as old as the originals.

Rebuilding the tranny with Rick Stivers' and the TM's.
All is going mostly well until I discovered I had a takeout solid
bronze rear thrust bearing and the replacement is bronze on
one side and has tabs. There are two cluster shafts one without
any depressions and one with depressions to accept the tabs.

I guess the thinking is as long as one side stays turning with the
cluster then they only have to bronze plate the side that turns against
the steel washer. Otherwise the thrust washer can turn and has to be
bronze on both sides. Pete D and Oilleaker say just notch the cluster with a Dremel and move on. Rick says to mash the tabs flat. I did that before I
thought the better of it after a conversation with Oilly.

So. I have ordered a new washer.

In the meantime I have rebuilt the shift tower. First I put the wrong
shift rail on the wrong fork, after taking forever to get the ball in.
Lost the ball on the floor. Then, installing the second rail the second
poppet ball launched into the stratosphere. Found it under the jeep
rear tire.

When I finished I wished I'd gone into medicine. I felt like I should have
cured cancer by now.

Finally called it a win and went to the porch for an adult beverage.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16247
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All's well that ends well!
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While waiting on parts I began cleaning the D18.

Bubba has had a major leak for some time.
During disassembly I have removed about 3 gallons
of crap from the transmission, transfer and crossmember.
Now that the transfer is out the majority of the goo
seems localized to the rear in front of the brake drum,
and up front.

There is evidence of the shift rails leaking at the front
but no way can that be what has caused this mess.

As bought the transfer still had the double flare fording
ventilation fitting on top of the transfer. Of course the
tubing was gone and it was open to atmosphere.

And since the speedo was inoperative there was no need
for a speedometer cable, so might as well yank that off
and leave the speedo hole open to atmosphere as well.

So it seems for the price of an axle vent fitting and cheap
speedo cable most of this mess could have been avoided.

And probably would have not needed to be adding gear oil..

For want of a shoe.
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1950 M38
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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 345
Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian,
Don't be so negative. Rebuilding that thing is keeping you out of the bars and off the road at night. Bubba was just looking out for you!!!!!!!!!
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R G Mutchler
M274A5
M-38 MC13312
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ralph!
Not negative at all! If it wasn't for Bubba most of us wouldn't have
anything to do!

Sometimes I just ask myself why.....

Take care,
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Brian
1950 M38
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tranny vent will not vent that much goo. The speedo port if left open recieves direct splash gear oil so it can certainly contribute to the goo. That much goo is common on all tired, road hard/put away wet jeeps. Most of it comes from the transfer output shaft seals and it is cumalative, meaning they replaced the seals several times without bothering to clean up the sticky residue.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Wes.

I'll be interested to have a look at the takeout seals. It would surprise
me to find they've been replaced within the last two decades.
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Brian
1950 M38
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wesk
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't surprise me. I have seen too many of them. They've had 70 years to change them several times and leave the goo. In your case it may have been the 10, 30th and 50th years which, by the way, are still 2 decades ago!
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha!

Well said!
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While waiting on parts I did some wire wheeling on the frame.

I'm convinced that exercise ranks right up there with working in a
colliery or even a carbon black plant.

I even found wire in my hair while taking a shower...
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Brian
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics are promised. I did complete rebuilding the transmission and shift
tower. I've torn down the transfer and have everything apart and replacements id'd. The last thing to come out where the shift rail
seals. What a pita.

If I have any advice it is to remove the shift rod seals before
removing the cover from the main case. Otherwise you can't get
any leverage with one of those seal puller tools.

By the way, the tool did not work in my case. I ended up cutting
the seals with a chisel and hammer, and yanking out the remains
with vise grips. Be very careful if you resort to this method. That casting
like the brake drum is cast iron.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
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4x4M38
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way,
The output shaft seals did not look bad. A little discoloring
on the yokes put no major wear.

But there were no felt seals on either end!
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Brian
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