Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:43 am Post subject: Brake parts lubrication
In a previous post moly or graphite film lube is recommended
for moving brake parts outside the hydraulics.
Can I use the same graphite you put into locks that is available
at the hardware store and do I put it on the pivot and eccentric
bolts and nuts as well as anything else that moves?
Actually there are several lubes that work well. Some anti-seizes do well in brake applications and the new ceramic based lubes work well to. The key is to coat contact surfaces of all moving parts except braking friction surfaces with any acceptable lube yet insure that lube cannot migrate to the friction surfaces. If you google "Lubricating drum brake parts" you will get hundreds of photos, videos and data posts on this topic.
Key rubbing areas that need lube on the jeep are:
1-shoe pivot points
3-the raised bump or flat spot in the brake back plate that the metal edge of the shoe rides on.
4-Rotating surfaces of adjusters both star wheel and cams.
5-Spring contact points.
This illustration found by googling the phrase I posted above shows the points on the back plate that require lube. This not a M38 or M38A1 plate since the pivots are at the bottom but it serves just fine to illustrate what we are talking about.
I would stick to lubes designed for use inside brake housings. These are heat resistant and have very good clinging characteristics. Spray graphites are just the graphite suspended in an aerosol. When the aerosol dries only the powdered graphite remains and yes powdered graphite will migrate. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:28 pm Post subject:
I bought a ceramic lube in press tubes at NAPA. Kind of
pricey, but for what you are using it for, and how often you 'll
be back for re-application probably a bargain.
I had taken the time to clean up all parts including the drums
and backing plates, wire brushing the pins and cam bolts and
running dies over them. Also filed any burrs and high spots
and non-flat spots on the cam bolts. I skimmed the cams but found
later that I needed to lightly sand the interior and clean up the
pins. Those brass buddies need to slide on real easy or they will
make trouble for you when assembling the pads and brackets.
If they are tight the assembly won't flange up because they won't
slip over the pin.
I am grateful for all of the information provided by manuals
as well as the help from the board. That and cleaning up and preparing
all of the reused parts enabled me to put everything back together
on both rear wheels in less than an hour.
I still need to adjust the shoes, install new lines, master cylinder
bleed and adjust linkage. Figure one more decent day.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Forum FAQ
Search
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
