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bobatwarsaw
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Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 52
Location: Warsaw, Texas 75142
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 Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:49 pm Post subject: flywheel removel |
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whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob |
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bobatwarsaw
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Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 52
Location: Warsaw, Texas 75142
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| Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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| also my Distributor is frose up and want budge |
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hillbilly21
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Joined: Aug 26, 2005
Posts: 510
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:30 pm Post subject: Re: flywheel removel |
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| bobatwarsaw wrote: | whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob |
MORE THAN LIKELY STUCK ON THE DOWEL PINS..TAKE A COUPLE PRY BARS ON THE 9 & 3 OCLOCK SPOT AND WORK IT FREE...
DIZZY CAN TAKE A TAD-BIT MORE USE SOME PENETRATING OIL LET IT SET IF POSSIBLE MIGHT NEED A CHAIN WRENCH TO TURN IT THEN YOU GET TO BUY ANOTHER IT WILL DESTROY IT..TRY SOME HEAT IF NEED BE...  |
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16247
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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You can usually knock all the flywheel to crank bolts loose with a brass drift including the two tapered or straight dowel bolts (whichever you have) then whack the edge of the plate and she'll jump off.
The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. Remove both the plate to block bolt and the plate to distributor bolt. Saturate with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk and let set for 2 or three days then try twisting the distributor body. You will usually make very slight gains each 2 day soak and by the week's end you should be able to rotate quite a bit. If it still seems hopeless warm up the cast iron with a torch (any kind). Then hit the distributor housing with a blast from a CO2 extinguisher or dry ice and turn lift quickly.
Once you have it out try to remember the rule, dis-similar metals need a parting agent on assembly!
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:21 am Post subject: |
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| 4x4M38 wrote: | Dang, H-Man,
That's harsh. |
If your implying to his all caps, he's not being harsh, he ALWAYS types in caps. I think someone glued his capslock button.
Hillbilly is a great guy.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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bobatwarsaw
Member
Joined: Jun 04, 2010
Posts: 52
Location: Warsaw, Texas 75142
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:28 am Post subject: |
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thanks for all the info
bob |
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country
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AAHUNT
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Joined: Mar 09, 2014
Posts: 26
Location: N.W. Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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I have had some luck with real beeswax. Heat the stuck bolt (or whatnot) up and melt the beeswax in...It's so thin that it works its way down in there...especially on threads.
Got that tip (and others) from an old timer...sometimes it works...sometimes not.
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-Andy
1954 M38A1 |
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1740
Location: SO IDAHO
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:07 am Post subject: |
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| wesk wrote: | | The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. |
Note to self: next scheduled maint be sure to pull the dist and apply anti-seize lest you be the "idiot". 
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keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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