I haven't done it on an AC speedometer but I have done it on a SW tachometer. The trick there wasn't in the removal but in the install. Can't put pressure on the shaft while pressing the needle back on as it damages the delicate pivot point.
In the event things go badly, I can recommend Williamson Speedometer in Arkansas. They are very reasonably priced and offer a quick turnaround. Got my M38A1 speedometer back in 7 days including the shipping time. They work on almost any make of gauges. _________________ Wade
Baton Rouge, LA
M38A1
M35A3
M37B1
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Sun May 24, 2015 10:25 pm Post subject:
In the process of working on the speedo it was
necessary to remove the bezel and lens.
I taped off the cylinder with several layers
of tape up to the edge of the bezel. Using a
small flat blade screwdriver I eased the edge up
a little all the way around, taking care not to
tear through the tape and scratch the side of
the lens. Also not deforming the metal enough
to tear it.
Then I used a paint can opener with a turned
90 degree end, working it under the edge and
raising it equally all the way around. You only want
to raise it enough to remove the bezel.
Reinstalling was pretty easy after I scratched my
head a while. After everything was assembled ,
I laid a narrow piece of plywood across the top
of the bezel and used water pump pliers to crimp
raised edge a little at a time all the way around.
The plywood protects the bezel front from the jaws
and the bottom jaw presses on the back side that no
one will see.
I did this in a couple of steps until the crimp was pretty
even all the way around. Then I laid the speedo
face down on a piece of wood and used a piece
of hardwood to further crimp and smooth out the
back side. I had a little roughness left which I
touched up with a file and sandpaper.
Brian,
Yes, slow steady pressure to lift the needle off. But it sounds like you are already well past that point. _________________ Wade
Baton Rouge, LA
M38A1
M35A3
M37B1
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Tue May 26, 2015 5:19 pm Post subject:
Hi Wade,
I tried several methods without success. Fear of damaging the
mechanism brought my efforts to a halt. My as bought unit
turned with the drill method and the odometer operated
correctly. The lens had been cut so that the side portion
was all that remained, leaving the insides open to Mother Nature.
The needle was snapped off just at the transition
from the narrow portion to the wedge. I removed the bezel and
removed the unit from the case, and cleaned up the dial with
plans to use the unit, case and dial.
I was lucky to be able to purchase another unit from Dave here on the website. His functioned as well, but had the case cut right at the
side windows. It had a good needle, face and lens. I removed the
bezel from the front of the case, removed the lens and cleaned it up,
rechecked the unit, lubricated and reassembled, using Dave's
mechanism, lens and bezel, and my original uncut case.
Although my original AC unit was the factory model, and Dave's
was a later AC non-radium dial for an A1, both appear to be
original or replacement units for the M38 and should work
for a motor pool jeep.
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