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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Fuel System help needed: M38
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Fuel System help needed: M38

 
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Jake266
Member


Joined: Sep 09, 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Missouri

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:47 am    Post subject: Fuel System help needed: M38 Reply with quote

M38 original and rebuilt but fuel is bad and tank requires draining and cleaning. Since I have never done something like this before, other than removing the old fuel safely and the proper disposal, how do I proceed with this task?
Any help would be appreciated.
Oh, and what is the easiest way to drain the tank?
thx
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Kendall
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Joined: Feb 25, 2006
Posts: 344
Location: Wichita, KS

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a drain plug on the bottom side of the tank. That would be the easiest method of draining fuel from the tank unless the plug is stuck. Then you could siphon the fuel out or just pull the whole tank out. It sounds like the tank needs to be removed anyway.
Kendall
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1951 M38
1952 M38
1952 M38A1
1942 Dodge WC-55
1951 M100 trailer
1942 Ben Hur trailer
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ChuckW
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Joined: Apr 17, 2005
Posts: 210
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

siphon the old gas into a container and dispose. Remove driver's seat assembly. Disconnect the lines, sender wires and hold down straps and clamps. Remove tank. Remove pickup assembly and sender unit from tank. Check with local radiator shops, many will clean and seal a gas tank.
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Chuck W.
Dixie Division MVC #002
1952 M38/M100
M274A2
1964 CJ3B
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4x4M38
Member


Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3444
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake,
There are degrees of bad gas. Some gas is just dead and won't
hardly light but is still liquid. Next stage is dead, nasty stuff that
is starting to coalesce into a thicker mess. Last stage is the stuff
is just gunk that may be somewhat soft but no liquid, to just
a dry, thick putty like layer.

The first is pretty easy to clean. As advised, remove the tank and drain.
At that point you can probably put in some clean gas and agitate or shake
the tank to pick up the particles. Drain again and inspect visually
with a flashlight in the filler and sump holes. You can tell if it is clean.

The second and third versions are much more difficult. If you are
lucky enough to find a rad shop or tank shop that will clean go that
way if you can.

If not, this is what I did. I bought an old electric hot plate.
Also, filled the tank about 1/3 of the way and shook the tank
for a while to vapor free the tank. I plugged in the hot plate and
propped the tank on top, set the temp to about 2/3 and left it to
heat up with the cap off.

I monitored the temp, making sure that the water wasn't so hot as to begin boiling. After an hour you could see the water was milky and had paraffin floating in it . I unplugged the hot plate, shook the tank and poured out the liquid.

I did this three times and was able to remove nearly a of the dried
varnish and gas. The rest I got with a putty knife and wire brush.
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Brian
1950 M38
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wesk
Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16241
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before obtaining a half dozen opinions here on this board which often do not always agree I would suggest you open your M38 service manual TM 9-8012 to pages 171 & 172. Give it a good once over review then ask questions here that you still have after the review of the manual.


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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