willysmjeeps.com

I've had good results with my 9 inch brakes by getting new drums. Rock Auto.com. Dynamic Friction Drum part number 36571004

By doing any drum turning on a Jeep, unless you have a brake shop make custom oversized linings, they really lose their stopping ability.

I've put 11 inch Willys pickup ...

Congrats on about as nice a M38 as they get. The Jeep went to the right home.

Your FJ made me grin also.

You probably got mobbed at every gas station on the way home. (I don't know, I just bought it :lol: :lol: ) Some guys end up with a enclosed trailer just to stop the 20 questions so they can ...

Up here, the pumps share three grades of gas with the same hose and pump. You get alcohol even if you dial up premium 91 alcohol free. Fiberglass motorcycle tanks begin to have their resin dissolve. That in turn fouls plugs and sticks the carburator throttle shafts etc. Very irritating. If you get ...

Wow, this one is putting it to you. Drilling out the base gasket rivets? I've never heard of that. Using a bolt and washers to squish them flat, yes. They definitely can cause a vacuum leak. I've put one thin paper gasket, top and bottom to help seal around those copper base gasket rivets. The dirt/ rust is another deal breaker, but you cleaned it all out. You checked fuel pressure. The stumble off idle is a trait that has caused me much grief with the vacuum operated carburators. I have 3 M38's that run them. One I gave up on and installed a WO civilian carb. At high altitude, they are the worst choice to use since you lose one inch of vacuum per 1000 feet. The long dip tube that drops into the well for idle circuit has two very tiny side holes or orifices that are very easily plugged. That can starve your idle fuel supply. I've had a small brass spec lodged in one that caused me $&%. I trouble shot this by spraying carb clean into the carburator inlet to make it run at a idle. This proved it was a no idle mixture fuel supply issue. You might give that a try. I'm suspicious of the rivet drilling also. Anyway, a couple of thoughts I had. Also, are you venting the distributor body with a orificed "T" ? If not orificed, you have a vacuum leak. I did see you had the vacuum port plugged into the gage, so that would/should eliminate the orificed "T". Another thing is on '51 M38's with the cold weather primer, that too can cause a vacuum leak, but I don't see it on your manifold. Hang in there, Oilly

Pay attention to the orientation of the advance cam if you remove it. You can put it back 180 degrees off from where it was.

Also park you engine at 5 degree BTDC in case you lose where things were. Note which cylinder/plug wire the rotor was pointing to so you get it back where it was.

I red ...

My '51 M38 has always had a more than normal Putt Putt while idling. This is with both the stock waterproof carb and a Civi WO carb. One of my Jeep pals told me to check the distributor advance weights and springs. Also the shaft bushings and advance cam for looseness. Yesterday I removed the ...

I hope they used a good brand of tape. The Chinese stuff won't hold up!

Been a while since I've hung out. Still own my Jeeps though. I have had a terrible time with the new bell crank bearing kits for both my M38's. With all replaced and new like you, I could shift the end of the bell crank arm up and down allot. I had death wobble. Everything else was good. The "new ...

So, less points contact on the stationary side. Gets hotter quicker or slower. Cools faster no doubt. Black plastic VS bakelite cam rider? Wears longer or shorter? Lots to consider.

Then there is Petronix with no points. Electronic trigger instead.

Just fix it and tell me what works so I don't ...

I had another friend who bought a set of Napa Echlin points and his Jeep would stumble and fall flat on it's face above a certain RPM. I took a look and discovered he did not install the spring steel band under the arm of the points on one side correctly. The only tension was the copper band. He had ...

Thanks Wes. The coil test data from prestolite is what we need to check next. As far as testing microfarads , well that is beyond me. Ohms I recognize.

interesting how just turning on the switch to test the heater blower or lights will fry the points in minutes if they are closed.

Oilly

Already asked. The answer was no, he did not leave the switch on for a abnormal amount of time. Oilly

New issue cropped up. One of my friends recently discovered his M38 (Not A1) keeps burning his points in his 24 volt waterproof Autolite distributor with a original Autolite type coil. I've not had this . His is actually transferring metal or melting them shut. If he replaces them it runs perfect ...

A wooden stick never lies!

You need to come back to the hills sometime Wes!

Check the float to see if it has fuel inside it and isn't sinking to the bottom, and also make sure the vent for the float chamber is venting into the cross tube and not plugged. Possible dirt on the inlet valve seat and not letting it close off when the float rises.