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bill i have one if you havent got one yet.

thxs i very well may this route...

thxs wes, i may just go that route then and maybe i can adapt those turn signals wires to add turn signals to the m38.

thxs guys,

what i understand is the m35 is a gasser, and the m35a2 is a multi fuel. dont know what difference there is in the wire harness but if everthing will work on the m38 i can always cut the excess wires off and eliminate the wires thats not being used. is this correct? thxs

very interesting and may consider it to keep 24volt components. shortning the ends wouldn't be a huge problem. wes what else kind of trouble would a person face if he tried a m35 or m35a2 harness on a m38?

Wes what is a rio m35 harness?

HAS anyone tried or has did this by using a m35 harness ...

I understand that I have to change the components. the jeep wiring was almost completely gone. ive got a dist and trying to find a 12 volt starter. the part stores that ive checked with today cannot catalog a cj5 starter. wanting to keep the taillamps and replace bulbs. yes I understand the m38 will ...

ok thanks i went therew but didnt find much. might have over looked it also,

hey guys been away for some time now. finally got the m38 to the point of either purchase a $800 wiring harness or changed to a 12 volt setup.
ive decided to go the 12 volt way. although i will keep 24 volt components.

my question is, is there a tuturial on changing from 24v to 12 v.

im sure ...

yep remember trying to do this to save a buck. it was a pain, took it to a shop and 15 dollars later it was done.

nice jeep!

nice work!

no, I was told by the supplier it didn't need the thick gasket. used the gasket that came with it. each one of those plates on the fuel pump arm is what wore grooves into cam lobe. and had excessive wear on the arm. but the wear was in center of foot. so my thinking is it didn't need the thicker ...

my new rebuilt engine has about 150 miles on it(don't drive it much). my oil pressure at start up is around 50 and maybe higher, once warmed up and driving it drop to about 15-20. ive always been told that's normal

chuck, I believe the part number was 17709.03. Im going to try to find a different pump once my engine gets rebuilt.because the way the fuel pump arm was made it wore grooves into the cam lobe. with that said the supplier said he hasn't seen that before. finally got a refund back.

just wore and my cam is good but the aftermarket fuel pump I installed did a number on the fuel pump lobe. just didn't want to put in new cam with worn lifters.

check with ron at g503 and local parts store, they didn't have them.

i'll check with peter d and see if he has them

just seems odd ...