willysmjeeps.com

Is there any way someone could download the entire content of the technical forums, photo galleries, and the "Downloads" section (manuals, etc) on to a disk or flash drive and then sell them?

Is there any way to just close down the website to further discussion but still allow access for reading and viewing of the existing content? The information already shared is a treasure trove of exceptional knowledge and helpful information. I would hate to see it go "poof!"

Several years ago I also rebuilt the YS950 carb on my F134. Like you, there was no check ball or weight. My rebuild kit was also purchased from MM. When I rebuilt the carb, I used the weight and check ball from the rebuild kit. Just so you know, I am not sure that I needed to rebuild the carb, I was ...

I just borrowed that photo from Wes K. The terminal screw on my M38A1 distributor is like yours. It took me hours to get the screw back into place after the first time I removed it with an ignition wrench.

The second time I removed it is when I changed the wire connector ends. Now I will never ...

What I did so I will never have this problem again was to replace the ring terminals on the coil wire and the condenser wire with fork terminals.

Now I never have to remove the terminal screw in order to remove or attach the wires.

Just loosen the screw with an ignition wrench and the wires will ...

whydahdvr wrote:Did I miss the asking list price somewhere? I remember that article too....

Sorry about that. I amended my post.

I have decided to sell my M38A1. It had a full restoration in 2011. Everything works. Starts and runs great. Tranny and TC work perfectly. All lights work. Brakes work. Includes all the canvas: top, side curtains, and doors. The reason for the sale is we need the funds to put toward a RV. We would ...

UPDATE

Today I swapped out the oil pressure sending unit. The old sender had the following stamped on it.
S-W 506B
120 LBS - 7728856

The oil pressure gauge in my M38A1 (1955) is 0 to 60 psi.

I guessed I had a mismatched gauge and sending unit combination.

I replaced the sender with a new 60 psi ...

Kendall wrote:I used a zip tie to secure the rod to the top bow.

Yep, I do what Kendall does.

wesk wrote:No reason to be confused! Your test results indicate the sender must be replaced.

Thanks Wes for your recommendation. I'll give J. Bizal a call about a new one.

I am more confused than ever. Here is what I find.

Gauge:
With the battery switch at OFF, the oil pressure gauge is pegged to the left.
Battery switch at ON, the gauge needle jumps to ~1psi (without engine running)
After engine starts, the oil pressure reads a pretty steady 20 psi regardless of ...

4x4M38 wrote:Have you confirmed the oil pressure is actually going up and down with rpm’s?

I'll start the cold engine and the gauge jumps to 20psi. After warm up, I'll increase the RPMs and the gauge will pretty much stay at 20 psi. It might jump up or down 1 psi when I drive it down the road.

Thanks, guys! I will test my oil pressure sending unit and let you know the results.

My M38A1 oil pressure gauge (0 to 60psi) shows a reading of at about 18 to 20 psi and varies little with rpm.

I want to test the sending unit using the directions provided below:
http://www.cj3a.info/sibling/milgauge/milgage.htm

The first test says:
" The ohmmeter should indicate 0 to 1 ohm ...

What is the part number for the Napa condenser. I need a 24 volt one for my 1955 38a1
That NAPA condenser got me through the 4th of July weekend. However, since the NAPA guys were not positive it was the correct one, I bought the correct condenser from Midwest Military. MM knows their stuff. I ...