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I use 16 gauge for everything. Easier to get. Easier to weld. No one can tell the difference once it is in place.

Yes, I got an SGI MB body kit last fall. It does have all the holes drilled into it, which the MDJ ones do not. Everything fits well. Those cost $1000 more though....
I think that if you want everthing to just bolt together after 80 years, that is asking too much. Everything in my world requires ...

I've used plenty of original shoes, and new ones; there is no difference, except that you won't get lung cancer from the new ones.
I would forget your search and focus on other things. Reading your TMs and SNL.

No M38 Part in the SNL called a bonnet, either in the US, or in England!

No you can't shift transmissions normally unless they are spinning.
It's normal.

Here is an example of under hood Driver's instructions:

The hood has to be manually secured to the windshield with a strap. Which no one ever did.
By vendor, I meant, and the OP specified "MV Jeep Vendors" one of the companies that sells pre cut letters and stencils for MVs on the internet, of which there are more than one. Of course my local graphics ...

I need the outer hand brake shoe for an M38A1; the one with two ears on it. Lining is not important.
I need it because a friend (ex friend) broke one of the ears off with a hammer. I don't need to pay $100 for a new set of them.
PM me. Thanks.

Since all this was up to the unit, there can be anything you want under the hood. I get all. my stencils and stick on letters from my local graphics shop. They all now have CNC plotters and computers that can make literally anything you want.
No need to use any vendor for this kind of thing.

Go to Jeep Draw and it will tell you all about shovels; the M38 uses the same shovel as a WW2jeep; the angle of the blade has to be more obtuse than some other shovels. And if you set the blade on the ground, the handle will be more than 6 inches up; that is the 6 inch rule. I have modified standard ...

I only know of one replacement body, and it is made by MD Juan, no matter who sells it. I have used several of them, in WW2, CJ, and M38 configurations. I find them easy to use and they do fit. I don't know what the guys who say they take more work than fixing an original are doing; the ones I get ...

Yes they do tend to get loose and rattle, but still seem to be the most effective jeep brake if you want a truly solid "emergency" brake: a term I cringe when I hear it applied to most jeep parking/hand brakes. If you are really in an emergency, best to jump out. Not nearly as good as the Dodge ...

If you can build an M37 you can definitely build an M38; all the M series parts are the same or very similar. Carb is very similar vacuum operated type. All M series wiring is the same.
Remember, without pictures, it didn't happen!
Get a complete set of TMs and study them daily for a month before ...

Thanks for the tip; but access is denied, and the M38A1 parking brake is unique to it, having both an internal and external shoe, levered against the drum from both sides.
He is selling a CJ5 brake setup which uses the common internal shoe type of system. The M38A1 design is actually the best type.

I have had a lot of flatheads ground to make them flat and remove pits. My rule is, if the valves don't hit it, I use it.
Not too scientific, but has always worked for me. Jeep and Dodge flathead.