willysmjeeps.com

Well im done with her an need to move on to other things so she is up for sale. If you have any questions feel free to message me. And Im selling the whole Jeep as is. I don't have any spare parts.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/492736687936114/

F head 134ci motor original.
New brake ...

Joe can you post up some pictures so we are all on the same page? If you dont have a photo album just request on from wesk.

So the mechanic is saying that you need new plugs seeing as how those plugs are fouled.

Take out the plugs.
Take a small bit of sand paper and just gently scratch the center electrode and the ground electrode clean.
Set the plugs to the proper gap with a feeler gauge. (I don't recommend the cheap ...

Stop. Relax. Take a deep breath and just walk away for a bit.

My 2 cents on this after having rebuild several carbs over the years. As Wes mentioned the float valve and the float.

Those little valves are quite touchy and do not like any dirt or debris at all. It only takes a tiny grain of debris ...

Sounds like you have either a ignition problem or a timing problem. The carb flooding is also a possibility but not likely.

Check that you are getting spark to the No 1 plug.
It should be hot and blue

If your not getting spark then remove the no 1 plug wire and use a wire or screw driver in the ...

Your real question should be "What caused the gear to fail in that way?"

Something caused your camshaft and oil pump to bind and the force had to go somewhere.

I have a feeling that the oil pump would have been seized in order to cause such a failure.

The pressurization of the engine, transfer case and transmission, was designed to prevent the ingress of water while fording.

The deep water fording operation used 2 valves that were pulled by a single cable in the cab. This closed the engine from the atmosphere and allowed it to pressurize which ...

Sorry LTDan to hijack your post but while on the subject I figured I'd ask, also good work on finding your problem.



Its no problem bud, I am also talking with the machine shop now.

My crank had to be welded and machined on the rear main sealing surface.

I believe they left too much weld ...

I would just get another.

Having the peace of mind knowing that your air filter is clean and good is one less thing to bother you if something goes wrong.

I found it! I found the problem.

When the machinist had put in new freeze plugs he used a bit of Black RTV to provide a better seal. Well guess what was in the oil passage junction between the camshaft and the crank shaft.

Yep a little tiny plug of silicon.

I thought i had cleared all of the oil ...

The engine block casting number is 806279-W-12-D-AR

Your right wesk I was fighting the symptoms and not the problem.

I have pulled the engine out and am in the process of getting it torn down to inspect the main bearings.

So here is a thought wesk.

Would i be able to route from either the number 2 or 3 oil galley plug to the #4 cam journal, and route a line from either the number 2 or 3 passages up to my head?

I dropped the pan and the rear main bearing. Lower bearing is showing over heating and gouges in the ...

Well i'm figuring worst case scenario and i'm diving back into the block. Perhaps I have installed the rear main bearings incorrectly.

Hey once again guys,

I have a 1954 m38a1 with a 134f head motor.

Motor was freshly rebuild and new cam bearings installed. I have no oil coming to my head. Pulled the line and elbow, i am getting no oil flow from the passage.

I checked the passage below and i am getting oil flow there.

I was ...