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T90 rebuild. There is a large spacer between the bearing retainer and the throw out bearing carrier.
Have not seen this before. Could not find this spacer in diagrams. Seems it would change the clutch fork leverage.
Is this correct for a 1952 M38? Or a motorpool addition? Thoughts?

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I found rust on some gear teeth mating surfaces on my T-90. Do these need to be replaced and why?

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Went to starter rebuilder. Showed him the following video. The video shows 2 voltmeters. Left is battery voltage, right is voltage at starter. Voltage is the same while cranking, but drops to 12 volts. He claims it’s a battery problem not a starter problem.

https://drive.google.com/file/d ...

Starter out. Appreciate your help!

Thanks Wes!
I have been known to overthink.
Appreciate your patience and guidance, as always.

Do I need to remove the starter switch from the top of the starter?
The pivot arm from foot starter to the switch is also in the way.
Sorry to be such a needy dummy on this one. For some reason a lot harder to get to than the GPW and M38A1.

How do you remove the top starter bolt? None of my tools can reach that “blind bolt”. It’s a 52 M38 with late model (M38A1 style) 24 volt original Auto Lite starter.

Thanks Wes.

Re-checked timing. I have the raised bump on the cover and hole on inside of pulley. It’s awkward to get a clear view at the correct angle, but it looks like 10 degrees BTDC.

Will pull the starter for a rebuild.

As always, thanks for the help!

Bringing back my old thread.
Let me know if you prefer I start a new one.

Please listen to this video clip of my laboring, slow turning starter.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wgTT-mPXgf0-YpT2xyT6D8xrxD4M9e-g/view?usp=drivesdk

Voltmeters indicate same voltage at battery posts and at starter ...

Just a clarification Wes.
It will “accept” the military copper compression fittings sold by MWM?
Or, yes to all “except” the fittings?
If it does not accept the original military fittings and tubing, what does a Cessna use for fuel lines to the dash mounted primer?

Well don't I feel stupid. It's been so long since I've driven the M38, that I completely forgot about the hand pump on the fuel/vacuum pump. Scoutpilot rebuilt it so it should work.

RonD2's suggestion for filling the carb bowl thru the fitting also seems like a good work around after longer periods ...

I’ll admit the M38 and A1 carbs are somewhat confusing to me. I’m used to a conventional mechanical accelerator pump that gives you a squirt of gas before starting,
Because of this, I’ve considered adding a cold weather primer kit to give a shot of fuel directly into the intake manifold.
This ...

Thanks RonD2 You've been a big help over the years. Much appreciated. Been on the sidelines and M38 sat for an extended period.

Answers to your good questions:
Original 24v ignition system, carb and fuel pump (rebuilt)
Batteries fully charged with battery tender. Good turnover.
87 octane ethanol ...

Been on the sidelines with health issues. M38 has been sitting for 3.5 months.

My usual start procedure (per Scoutpilot from carb and fuel pump rebuild): Full choke until engine kicks once. Then choke in, add throttle to start. Reminds me of chainsaw start procedure.

I realize the manual says ...

Ohm readings for sender 1200923-2
1.8 ohms empty (float down)
24.4 ohms 1/2 full
40.5 ohms full (float up)

Ohm readings for sender 11640674
3.4 ohms empty (float down)
16.1 ohms 1/2 full
32.9 ohms full (float up)

Both floats go up and to the right (with Douglas connector facing forward). The ...