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Just to confirm, did you buy an awl or palm?
For refastening straps either will work. The repair depends upon your keeping significant tension on the thread.
For a rip in canvas, trying to sew a rip together is not going to give you a good repair. A patch piece needs to be fitted over the rip, sewn ...

I just dismantled my cable connection to see what I had installed. The frame hole A on my frame will accommodate a 1/4” bolt - no larger. I do not have hole “b” in the body mount bracket.

I did Jury-rig this setup as the cable end crimp connection can accommodate a larger bolt.

Use of hole B referenced above may be a challenge due to the available cable length and lack of access and space for a nut between the body mount and hat channel.
If you would like a photo of my install to hole A let me know.
I wanted the least resistance between the battery ground and cable ...

The ground lead attaches to the frame. There is a pre-drilled hole about 1.5” to the rear of the bottom rivet of the body-mount bracket.

Where are you located?
What are you trying to have repaired?
Brian moved a few years back but the town escapes me at the moment.
If you are looking to have differential work done and you are in the Northeasrt consider Mitchell Differential Service in Shrewsbury, MA.
They reworked a D44 for me in ‘21 ...

Thank you for all you gave Maj. Ben. From USMC to Community to us on MJeeps you are missed.

Being clear - there are only 2 manufacturers of reproduction tubs: MDJuan (Phillipines) & SGI (India).
Any vendors you see in the US sell one or the other. Do your research as there is plenty of first hand information on this and other flatfender forums on the tubs. MDJ has been around a long time ...

Were you able to balance your tires by using weights only on the inside of the rim?

You did not mention the clutch but I have to ask - did you change anything of the clutch?
Is the chatter all the time or only when letting your foot off the clutch?
For clarity is your “chattering” a noise? Or is your chattering a bucking feeling when you are getting underway before your foot is ...

The hood blocks on the M38 look special.

I used PC7 epoxy and mixed it with OD paint. After smoothing and wet sanding the match was close enough that the repairs are not overly apparent and the steering wheel is still its original finish rather than painted.

Now fast forward - PC7 used to be commonly available around here. And it looks ...

Were the letters white? Or natural unpainted alloy?
If Alloy (how I did mine) use a small very flat sanding block with 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the paint.
If you want white letters you can first paint the body of the switch white. then spray a thin coat of OD over the white. Next, use a tiny ...

Experiment with adding OD paint to your epoxy (I used PC7 epoxy - now 12 years ago). If you match the epoxy color to the wheel you can do a final sanding of the epoxy with fine paper. Then sand the entire wheel with 1500 grit and polish it rather than paint it.
I took time to use masking tape to ...

Nice work on the family jeep! It's great to see these jeeps alive again with their family memories in the drivers seat. Have fun with it.

Looking to buy a late M38 version (after s/n 31xxx) steering gear box.

Can rebuild but should have a good worm and sector.

Thanks
Tom

27Aug19. Update - got one on the way. Thanks