Need advice on M38CDN, '53 i think

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:27 pm

Was sitting in a barn since '86, ran when it was parked due to a bad master cyl. At the right place at the right time with my big mouth. Welll, you are not officialy married untill your wife says "you bought WHAT?".
I can't seem to get any compression form the old go devil, engine turns over fine, tried the old drop of oil down the cyl trick checking for warn rings\ cyl, no change. Am I right in thinking that the valves are stuck open from too much rest? This toy is in remarkable shape, all intact, with the exeption that the fording system has been hacked at. Manufacture date july '52. I have been offered a 4.3L V6 but that is my last resort. Any suggestions?

OKCM38CDN · Post by **OKCM38CDN** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:49 pm

Maybe pull the valve cover, and look at the valves while turning it over to see if they move...

If not try some lube on them to free them up...

Valves and guides can be replaced...

Worth the extra work to keep an old timer original... My opinion

BY the way with a date of July 52 it is a 52, M-38CDN were only made in 52... You might look for the CAR numbe on the front drivers fork behinf the bumper and post it. My M-38CDN was built in July...

gamillerman · Post by **gamillerman** » Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:13 am

Mine sat in a barn for about that long also. Engine turned over fine but only 25-35 lbs. of compression when I checked it. Upon tearing down the moter; the valves were not stuck but the intake valves were very rusted and corroded around the seats and top of the vlaves probably contributing to the lack of compression; otherwise the internals of the moter were in very good shape considering the length of time it sat. I plan on just replacing the valves and guides when I get ready to rebuild the moter.

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 7:21 pm

thanks guys,,
the '52\'53 thing was an assumption. truck I'm driving was manufactured in june 04 and its considered a '05. stand corrected.
If I do get to the point that I'm into a valve job, is is possable to get valve seats a bit harder than original. This rig was designed to run on gas with a lead additive. Or is that overkill on my part

Post by **wesk** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:15 pm

Willys dealer system operated on calendar year. Canadian built (Ford of Canada) units were all dated 1952.

There are hardened exhaust replacements seats available across the counter as are steelite exhaust valves. They really aren't a necessity unless you intend to cruise the jeep on the highway above 50 MPH regularly or race it.

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:22 pm

RACE IT!!. Heck no. I live 3 miles from work. The day I found the old girl, four of my coworkers in two different trucks wizzed by it thinking that it was an old cj5. I decided to turn back. two days later I drove by the crews on my day off with a buddys deck truck with it on the back. One guy is still kicking himself. I have all intentions in idling into work hopping out and , he he,, rubbing their noses in it.
While I'm here,, manuals,, specificly engine teardown. Not putting a wrench, so to speak, on this untill I've had my nose in a book. Where can I find such a thing. Also,, parts,, hard to find? aftermarket? Please be kind guys, I've done four frame off restorations on GMC "k"series trucks, have never worked on anything this old before.
Thanks in advance
j

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:49 pm

John,

Look to the left and click on "web links"

We have pages of links to suppliers, websites, etc.

supliers weblink list: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... link&cid=2

Portrayal press has lots of manuals in hard copy and CD.

The maintinance and repair TM's and the ORD 9 SNL are very handy.

In the downloads section there is a list of maunals with descriptions under the M38A1 list: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... oad&cid=20

Using the manuals is a must, cannot do much without them.

Suppliers I have used are: Army Jeep Parts, Peter Debella, Midwest Military, and check out the for sale section here, the g503 and sometimes ebay.

also post some photos when you get the chance.

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:24 pm

you folks are going to think that all i am is one continous question...towing,, have made a towbar to get the rig home, once i have a place in the garage to put it. About a 15mi trip. concerned about lubrication. Does the transfer case and the transmission share a common oil? Transmission or transfer case in neutral? Or am i wise to drop the driveshaft?

OKCM38CDN · Post by **OKCM38CDN** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:45 pm

Transfer and transmission both use 90W Oil...

Personally I would drop the drive shafts both front and rear... better to be safe than sorry...

Also if using a towbar and not being sure of the condition of the axles etc, keep the speed down. Do not want to tear up something beyond repair...

My 2 cents worth...

rdsar2k · Post by **rdsar2k** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 8:30 am

johnsfind53 wrote:RACE IT!!. While I'm here,, manuals,, specificly engine teardown. Not putting a wrench, so to speak, on this untill I've had my nose in a book. Where can I find such a thing. Also,, parts,, hard to find? aftermarket? Please be kind guys, I've done four frame off restorations on GMC "k"series trucks, have never worked on anything this old before.
Thanks in advance
j

Look at WWW.earlycj5.com In there technical library section they have almost all of the military manuals for the M38 and the M38A1 free for download. I copied parts, engine, maintenence, powertrain & body for the M38 & M38A1

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 4:16 pm

manuals were awesome, printed bound and nose in them all weekend. THANK YOU GUYS
On the towing topic,, guess what I was looking for was , where does the trans/ t case get it's lubrication, oil pump, slinger,etc. Remember back in my teen years (you know adults are stupid, "uh dad is the bay of fundy salt water?" stage) towing a buddys toy, sammi i think, on a tow bar. Left trans in gear and t case in neutral. Trans had an oil slinger, supported both. Was a real handfull when the rear wheels locked up on the highway.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 7:31 pm

Look at page 36 in TM 9-8012. "Towing vehicle with four wheels on ground.

1-Tranny Neutral
2-Transfer range lever Neutral
3-Transfer 4WD lever OUT.

johnsfind53 · Post by **johnsfind53** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:48 pm

thanks wes