Block Machining

rdsar2k · Post by **rdsar2k** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:08 am

So I take my block in to be machined. Had to go .030 on the pistons, cut the crank and including the con rod journals, new exhaust guides and seats and valves (since I'm doing the rest might as well go hardened seats). I get it back and the valves won't go in the guides, the seats are inserted in the block about 1/16" below the deck, the guides are inserted almost 1-1/2" down from the top of the deck (suppose to be 1").
I'm sick. I hate confrontation about this kind of stuff and I really hate someone being cavalier about the solution. When I took it back the counter guy replied we forgot to check the valve clearance, we don't lap in valves, the guides should be ok at 1-1/2" and the seats are fine as the valve is adjustable so that 1/16" is ok.
I threw up on him. Maybe my limited experience in overhauls doesn't give me the comfort of taking liberties like they are comfortable with but what are spec's for? Just a rant. I hate these type things.
On a side rant. I bought a new Jeep Unlimited Rubicon for the family SUV (I know over kill) because we wore out our Sante Fe. The sides of the Jeep are scratched and pitted from rocks and mud ( I live on a dirt road) in less than a thousand miles. The Rubi's have not side boards and the fenders are short so the dirt and rocks fly up at a 45° angle scratching paint and chipping hinges on the way. The dealer is unsympathetic as 'this is a Jeep'. So I am buying mud flaps to hopefully fix the problem but my paint is already damaged.
I just feel like it's me against the world right now.
(It feels better just talking about it)

whydahdvr · Post by **whydahdvr** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:24 am

Well you just taught me something. I'm getting deployed next year. I've been looking for a replacement for my '96 Tahoe without sucess, until this Summer. The 4-door Jeeps are a great solution, with the load deck on the trailer hitch. My plan is to save for one on the deployment and get it when I return. But, now I know that when I go on dirt roads I'll need to get mud flaps or something to protect the body. Which makes me wonder too about our M38s on the dirt and sand and such. I gather most folks use them in parades or for show but I'm planning to use mine at a summer house - on the beach and we live down about 2 miles of dirt roads. Chipping will happen and I guess as long as it's kept reasonably clean regularly that will keep the rust down.
But as for your engine, you reminded me of a similar story that the mechanic I had do the major work on my jeep told me. He had a similar situation with a local shop doing that kind of work for one of his customers' cars. And his sentiments were the same. The lack of quality work and the attitude about it seems to be increasingly endemic.
I hope things work out for the better for you!

Rick_L · Post by **Rick_L** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:38 pm

I have had my M38 down a good number of gravel/dirt roads, and haven't niticed any chipping on the rocker panels or underside of the front fenders.

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 8:28 pm

I know your pain when it comes to dealing with rebuilding older vehicles.

Many of you may not know Ben Daugherty, but he used to be on here and the G503. He did a June 1951 M38. He had to pull his engine 3 times and take it back to the shop that rebuilt his engine. I know the first time he did not get any oil pressure and found out that they forgot to put the oil fitting that sprays the cam gear in front - big hole = no pressure. I don't remember the what the other 2 times were.

When I had my engine rebuilt, I gave the guy a copy of the pertinent manual pages with highlighted things that are often overlooked. I followed up weekly at the shop to check on progress and spur them on so to speak.

After seeing what Ben went through when I got the engine back, I worked a deal with my neighbor who is a mechanic and we tore the engine back down to check it all out.
We found:
No permatex on the head studs, a couple of main bearing bolts were only finger tight, when I removed the head, lots of metal shavings came out of the water jackets, there were a few other things I can't remember now.

Needless to say, this guy was recomended to me by some other jeep restorers and I feel like the shop did not spend the time to put it back together correctly. It was not cheap either and I told the guy my main focus was a quality job.

If I had a dollar for every time this has happened, wait, I think I have spent multiple dollars every time this has happened.

Just don't add up all the reciepts, sometimes ignorance is bliss.

rdsar2k · Post by **rdsar2k** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:00 am

whydahdvr wrote:Well you just taught me something. I'm getting deployed next year. I've been looking for a replacement for my '96 Tahoe without sucess, until this Summer. The 4-door Jeeps are a great solution, with the load deck on the trailer hitch. My plan is to save for one on the deployment and get it when I return. But, now I know that when I go on dirt roads I'll need to get mud flaps or something to protect the body.

\

Get the Sahara package which includes side steps that will block the rocks from flying up. I got the Rubicon which has rock sliders that do not. The base X model has nothing there at all.

Cacti_Ken · Post by **Cacti_Ken** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:57 pm

I know exactly how you feel. It's definately a pain in the rear, having someone do work for you. I have rebuilt a few engines myself. When I did the work every thing went good. I didn't have any problems after start up and run in.

The reason I decided to take my M38 engine in because I knew it was very worn out and would probably need some machining. The shop I took it to had been in business since WWII. My Dad had done business with them for years. So I take my engine to them. I end up taking it back three times before it was to my satisfaction. I was lucky and did not have to express myself with the owner. Each time I pointed something out that was not right, he was understanding. Maybe he gave his help a tounge lashing after it was all over with I don't know, but he should have.