Generator to regulater cable

[wilfreeman]

Hi all,

I was rummaging through my parts the other day and found my generator to regulator cable. As soon as I bent it, the insulation (rubber covering) cracked and fell apart. I came in the house and started looking for a replacement - Man, what is the deal with the prices on these things? I couldn't believe it. One cable costing almost 1/4 of the cost of my full wiring harness?

I searched and called and emailed around for the rest of the day and finally found a suitable (or at least useable) replacement at Army Surplus Warehouse for $12.95! Only problem is that it's 64" long. I figure a couple of loops held with zip ties, and I save myself $72 for the time being.

My question - can these things be shortened by a mechanically inclined person such as myself, or can I replace the wire on my original one?

I just had to refuse paying $85 - $110 for 1 cable, when this is not going to be a 100 point restoration. Is there a cheaper source or a cheap way to fix either one of mine?

Thanks - Matt

[chuck]

Does the cable still work? If it does,clean the rest of the dried out rubber off,do a nice tape job and call it a day. Given the prices of these things ,your spending a lot of money for cosmetics.Chances are even a NOS one will be dried out.
Chuck

[wilfreeman]

Hi Chuck,

It was very brittle, so, like a child with bubble wrap, I HAD to continue to peel ALL of the rubber off. I don't know if it worked or not - the jeep was running 12V when I disassembled it, so it wasn't using the regulator. The copper braiding only had a small (3/8") cut in one place, so I guess it is OK.
I thought about using the tool dip rubber coating (Plasti Dip) - I did my spark plug cables about 12 years ago (after I bought my replacement ones), but never tested them to see if I would get shocked.
With all the extra cable I'll be getting on this new cable, I was thinking if it was fairly easy to shorten the cable, I could use the excess to fix my original cable also and have 2. I didn't know about the makeup of them - whether they are crimped at the large connector, whether the pins are removeable (like a trailer cable plug), etc.

Thanks - Matt

[chuck]

Hi Matt,
I think you are digging yourself a big hole! Yes the cable can be shortened ,the three wires are soldered into cups on the connector.You'll need a decent sized soldering iron .I go back to my previous post,and keep it simple.Usually the wires inside are ok.
I took a GM one wire alt.to an auto -electric shop,had it rebuilt ,added a double pulley,and changed to 24v.@about 55a., cuts in at about 800rpm's .Then got creative with a mounting bracket(got mine from Willysworks)I also changed to a 24v. voltmeter.Everything works great.
Chuck

[wilfreeman]

That's interesting - I've seen the alternator wiring harness conversions (I guess they're using Humvee alternators?) on ePay. I just removed an alternator bracket conversion from my engine (very well made, I might add). It was a GM 1 wire. If the Humvee alternators weren't so expensive, I would think about converting - I just want to keep the (general) military look over function/modernality.

Matt

[chuck]

A converted 12v 63a one wire off a GM car will work,just change the internal regulator. Then paint it with Krylon satin black fusion paint.Looks military,plus gets rid of about 70lbs.
Chuck

[wesk]

The cables are rebuildable and repairable. The rubber coating you lost was an anti-chafe coating to keep the wire braid from rubbing and damaging components it laid against. The pin retention depends on who assembled that cable the last time. Some are soldered and some are crimped. The crimp tool is available surplus or from any electronics supply company.

TM 9-1825E covers the cable repair and assembly.

T determine the serviceablilty of a cable assembly you separate the cannon type plug from it's shell retainer and slide the retainer and plug apart so you can inspect the condition of the internal wires and count them. Some cables have two and some three. Then reconnect the plugs and using an ohm meter check for continuity of each wire by placing one probe on the pin A in one plug and the other probe in pin socket A in the the plug in the other end of the cable. You should show continuity with little or no resistance. Do this again for each wire. Now staying at one plug only check each pin for continuity to the metal shielding. All three should show NO continuity. Verify each by wiggling the conduit/shield to make sure during the test. Finally at the same plug check for continuity between A & B, B & C, C & A. They should all indicate NO continuity.

If the cable passes the above tests, and any damage to the braided shield does not leave a sharp interior edge that can cut the short to the internal wires then use the cable.

If you must have the black coating then spray it with rubberized black paint or remove the pins and the plug at one end a slide a piece of black heat shrink tubing on the shield/sheath. and re-install the plug and pins.





You can go to my photo site and download the rest of the pages from this chapter.
http://www.mypicgallery.com/MPG/Picture ... rkzTnm8%3d

[wilfreeman]

Good info - exactly what I was looking for. Where do you get all this stuff Wes?

[wesk]

I've been working on these type plugs for years. I have a training manual that covers some of this data but I looked for 5 years for a copy of this TM 9-1825E Bendix Electrical. I found this copy at a museum in Denmark.

[Cacti_Ken]

I took two of those cables apart. One cable I bought the rubber was cheap grade and came off.

Cable number one had bad rubber and 90 deg. connector.
Cable two was too long and had 90 deg. connector also.

I wanted to make a cable with straight connectors on both ends the proper length.

I took them apart. It was fairly easy. I removed the wires out of the rubber grommet. took a little effort here. I used a propane torch to desolder the connectors. I cut the long cable core housing with a hacksaw and cleaned up the sharp edges. Cut back the rubber from the end so as not to scorch it on resoldering.

Got some heavy shink tube from hardware store and slid two pieces on it to cover the exposed braid when finished.

Resoldered the straight connector, cut the wires to proper length and soldered the pins back on, and put it back together.

Was much easier than I had anticipated. I figured that taking the pins out of the rubber grommet would be a pain.
But it came apart with a little effort. And with a little silicone grease went back together easy.

[wilfreeman]

Hi Ken,

Sounds like what I want to do - except I want to make 2 new cables out of the (new)long cable. So you had to desolder the pins while they were in the grommet? How did you keep from burning the grommet?

[Cacti_Ken]

You must get the pins out of the grommet first before doing any soldering or desoldering. You have to use a little force to push the pins to the rear of the grommet. I forgot exactly how I did it. I might have chucked the assembly in the vice then go a blunt tool to push on the pins one at a time to get them out. I'm sorry but it was a while back that I did this. I'm trying to recall from memory.
Wes probably has the exact instructions.

[wilfreeman]

OK - that makes sense. I did a little internet searching and found a few industrial supply places that had instructions on how to assemble this type of connector. I wasn't sure if these old military connectors were the same or not. Thanks for the input - my new 'lon' cable is supposed to be here tomorrow. I guess I'll try my hand at it over a few beers while I'm off later this week. I'll post pics if I do an acceptable job at it!

Matt

[wesk]

All the instructions needed are in the pages I posted the link to. Go to my photo site and copy and print the pages. The Army issued pin insertion and removal tools for the pins. The proper tools will not damage the pins. Do not use pliers to hold the slotted cylinder while you break the rear threaded shell loose. The prober way is to fasten the connector to it's respective receptacle either on the generator or the regulator then break the rear threaded shell loose. Then you can take the cable to the bench. Press out the rubber grommet from front to rear. Then using the pin removal tools push out each pin from front to rear. Then de-solder. Then when you are ready to re-assemble the plug re-solder the pins or use new pins and a crimp tool. Then using the pin insertion tool, which has a break in it's circumference so you can surround the wire and push firmly against the metal pin's rear edge, push the pin fully into the grommet. Slide the rear threaded shell and any other pieces that were originally to the rear of the plug on the cable. Use a piece of plastic pipe the same diameter as the grommet with a section cut out so it will slip over the wires and press the grommet into the connector from the rear to the front. These instructions vary slightly from the pages posted. Mainly because the crimped pin became the more common method. It helps to lube the pins and the grommet before trying to push the pins in but don't use oils or silicons. A small pump spray bottle of dish soap and water works. It will dry and not leave the pins permanently slippery. Slippery contacts can sometimes work their way back in the grommet loosing contact with their mating pin.

If you purchase new solder type pins they came with solder in them already and all you needed to do was tin your wires and add a dab of flux to the wire tips and heat the pin while sliding the wire in. Also you'll see a pencil torch being used in the manual photos but the instructions clearly warn you to use an electric soldering iron with the #12 and #16 gage wires.

The tools are shown below:







These cables came from several manufacturers and did differ in composition some:





To clarify a few points:


These are malel pins


These are female pins or as they often called sockets.

Here's a page from the 1970's vintage Army Training manual on this topic: