I just bought an M38A1

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:39 am

It's my third Jeep, my other two were a CJ5 and a CJ7.
Supposedly, it has been "fully restored". The body and engine are new. The tranny has been "checked". Driving down the street, 3 out of 4 times, the gears grind when I shift from 1st to 2nd. My CJ7 did this, but it also popped out of gear. The synchros were bad on it, and I swapped in a T18A.
My M38A1 doesn't pop out of gear, but like I said it grinds. High revs, low revs, higher speed, lower speed, there is no way to predict it. I assumed the synchros were bad, but the buyer is trying to tell me the tranny is fine, I just need to double clutch. Funny, I thought that was only downshifting into first. Does anyone have an opinion?

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:36 am

I have 5 older Jeeps and one is a M38A1. It doesn't grind. My brand new re-build on my CJ3A, T-90 does. Ask if they ever put in a "new synchro ring" and 2nd gear, and synchroniser assembly. The machining and new parts are not the quality of the original stuff. 2nd gear has a cup machined surface that the synchro ring spins on with oil. The new crap that isn't machined like the old will stick to that surface until it is worn in. If you pull the top shifter off and look at the 2nd gear brass synchro ring, it should have nice definable sharp points on the tits. That's new. If it is all rounded and dull, it's worn out. On my new build, if I push the clutch all the way in when shifting, and when I let off the gas, you get a rhythm of click click, neutral and then into 2nd, it sometimes won't grind. I think the synchro ring sticks on and off to the cone. If you are having a hard time shifting at all with it, re-adjust the clutch. A uneven pressure plate set of springs will cause the clutch to drag and tough shifting, especially 2nd.

John

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:39 am

Before attacking the tranny make sure the bell housing to engine bolts are tight and the tranny to bell housing bolts are tight. A worn pilot bushing can give you those symptoms also.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:15 am

Cool, thanks for the info.
The whole vehicle is kind of half done. Body looks great, clutch is new, engine is rebuilt, repainted, and looks brand new, but only the voltmeter gauge works, all the steering linkage (including the steering box) is shot, the shocks are worn out, the tires are dry rotted, and the tranny grinds. The front left spring hanger mounts in the back to the frame, the rest of the frame is rust free, but it's rusted there, and the hanger pulled through the frame.
He says the transmission and transfer case were checked and work fine. The shift levers feel a bit loose, and I have my doubts.
I had to get a rebuilt steering box (Midwest Military has them), new tie rod ends, new tires, new shocks, and new gauges.
I wanted to install an overdrive, and Novak Conversions sells a T90 mated to a T18 transfer case mated to a Warn overdrive. If I put that in, my truck will be almost all brand new.

GIJOE290 · Post by **GIJOE290** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:07 pm

Welcome & Congrat's on your purchase!

Post some pics when time permits.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:55 pm

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:48 pm

Looks like a nice cosmetic resto but definitely not a frame off and really doubtful that any of the mechanical systems were truly properly overhauled.

Looks like you will be spending a significant amount of money to bring the mechanical parts of the jeep up to the same level as the body.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:58 pm

Yeah, the guy said "fully restored" when I bought it for $10,000.
The frame has one rust spot on it, but nothing else has rust. The engine and clutch are brand new. That said, the steering linkage was all worn. I am now putting in new tie rod ends, a new steering box, new tires to replace the dry rotted old ones (and new military rims while I'm at it, it has a horrible steering wobble), new shocks, and all new gauges. The transmission grinds when I upshift, and feels sloppy. I have a feeling it's the original one from 1952, and I wanted to install an overdrive, so Novak Conversions is putting together a T90 to Dana 18 to Warn overdrive set for me, and it will basically be a bolt in replacement.
I did think this would be more complete than it is, and I have ended up spending alot on mechanical parts. What told you I would need to?

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:09 pm

oh, and any more areas you would recommend that I take a close look at? Almost everything in the engine bay looks like it has been replaced (generator, radiator, all that), and the guy says the brakes are new, although they barely stop, and I'm swapping in a front wheel disc brake conversion.

skyjeep50 · Post by **skyjeep50** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:01 am

"all brand new"?? Your M38A1 is about 60 years old and most of the replacement parts are that age as well. Working with these jeeps is like the old circus spinning plate act - keeping all the plates up and spinning is constant work. One part starts to go, you get it fixed and another mainenance challenge crops up. Putting in an overdrive unit and swapping out original drum brakes for larger disk brakes can be done but at the expense of originality - that is certainly every owner's choice. But for a vehicle that was only meant to travel a reletively slow speeds the question becomes, why? Your old CJ7 could easily go highway speeds (so could mine) but I don't expect or demand that my M38A1. Different vehicles. The original systems work well as designed if they are maintained - the brakes will stop the jeep easily from 45 mph but they are not modern power brakes, the power comes from your leg - you got to push! The trans doesn't need double clutching if the synchros are in good order. Going from 2nd to 1st is easy if the jeep is stopped. Original design. Steering components, especially the steering gear, can wear and get sloppy but properly adjusted there won't be any wobble. Maintenance? Read through the TM's, do the routine maintenance items, check all the safety items and make sure they are in good shape. Then drive and enjoy - and wait for the next thing that goes, boink!

Post by **wesk** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:43 am

and I have ended up spending alot on mechanical parts. What told you I would need to?

The Cosmetic Restos, often called pretty Jeeps stand out as just that, pretty but mechanically poor condition. The responses the seller gave you about the mechanical issues you discovered are pure BS or he is absolutely ignorant of anything mechanical.

As mentioned above these jeeps in their stock form came with perfectly adequate steering, brakes and drivetrains if these components are maintained in good working order. You cannot compare the performance of a well maintained m38A1 to any modern highway capable jeep. That's comparing apples to oranges. The M38A1 was designed for primarily off road use with a reasonable LOW SPEED (45 MPH) highway speed for convoying. My A1 was perfectly stock in the 1980's and I drove it everyday to and from work 20 miles each way on I-90 from west of Rapid City to Ellsworth AFB )East of Rapid City) at 55 to 60 MPH and it steered fine and stopped just fine but 60 was absolutely the highest reasonable speed for this jeep and it was quieter and more comfortable at 50 to 55..

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:35 am

I don't have to install the disc brakes. I hadn't originally intended to, I bought a conversion kit, but still have them in the box.
The drum brakes just are so slow stopping the vehicle, even at low speeds, it's a safety issue.
I don't want to race around the vehicle, mostly I'll do 30-40 MPH. I live in Austin, TX, and the furthest I will take it is on hunting and camping trips. I just know the overdrive will lengthen the life of the engine, and make it a little easier to go those highway speeds on the few occasions I have to. And the disc brakes will help it stop. I'll keep the drum brakes, I can always swap back.
I know none of it will be "brand new", I just want it all in good working order.
The steering box can be turned a good two inches before it moves the tire. The seller was trying to tell me there is a screw on the box to tighten this up. He also said all the tie rod ends were fine, and they are visible worn out!
I noticed, when I would go over a small bump at like 20 miles an hour, the truck would go into this crazy "death wobble", and I'd have to fight it for like 5 minutes to keep from going off the road. Steering is shot, shocks are shot, and the front spring has detached from the frame on one side, so I'm fixing all of those and holding my breath!

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:41 am

Oh, and West, since you seem very knowledgeable on this, let me ask you.
He says "The clutch is brand new, so it might just need a little adjusting".
My other question, is on the engine. I got it down here to Texas, and it just started dying on me. After like 20 minutes, it will die and I have to restart it, and sometimes I have to let it sit for a good ten minutes or so to get it restarted. Thrust quick starter fluid seems to be able to get it started if nothing else. It has like 100 miles on a rebuilt engine. I was thinking maybe vapor lock? The fuel line goes between the exhaust manifold and the engine block, and ambient temperature down here is like 90.

skyjeep50 · Post by **skyjeep50** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:00 pm

The screw the seller was telling you about on the steering box does not "tighten" the steering action. (I think the "screw" he was referring to was something else all together

). I'd suggest reading the TM's in the DOWNLOADS section of this website and see how the steering system is supposed to be set up. There are a lot of potential adjustments to make and/or worn parts to replace to make the death wobble go away. You can bone up on clutch adjustments and brake adjustments to make them work their best at the same time. If you do a little reading I bet you will soon know more than the PO ever did and have a nice running jeep!

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:23 pm

I bought a manual, and I've been reading it in my spare time. Haven't gotten to the steering section yet!