New Paint - VERY shiny ?

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49tandc
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New Paint - VERY shiny ?

Post by 49tandc »

I picked up some Gillispe enamel paint for the M38A1 at a local MV show and just got around to squirting some (dash to see how the paint looks) - and the color is right, but its very glossy.

Is this correct? I've seen other A1's and they look more "satin" finish than high gloss.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
49T&C
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Post a photo. What paint number from Gillespie? 23070 is closest to original Willys 2430 used up thru 55. 24087 is correct for post 55.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 »

I had the same problem. Sprayed out all and looked. My early '51 original paint actually matched 33070 and it is satin like you want. 23070 was off a bit and was way too shiney. The later 24087 is quite brown to me and doesn't look anything like the later darker color you most often find. Gas cans and late 50's stuff is a color I haven't seen available. Maybe Gillespie can provide you with a flattener for 23070????? They all look better to me than metallic blue 8O John
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

The closest off the shelf match to the correct 1950 thru 1956 Willys M jeeps paint (2430 OD) is the 23070 which is a semigloss paint. 2430 was a semigloss paint that was also used with a lot of flattener as the primer coat on the M38 and early m38A1. This is why folks that sand down thru the layers of paint are often confused when they uncover a slightly darker and glossier 2430 then a flatter 2430. They are the same paint code.

Just how glossy or flat your 23070 comes out depends on what you are using for primer, how much hardener you are using and your application technique as well as that days humidity and etc. That is why you test shoot a piece first and adjust the mix and technique as needed to get the result you want. Too flat add hardener/accelerator, to glossy add flattener and so on.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 »

Wes, I saw the primer coat you are talking about. When I took my '51 M38 apart, the headlight pots were painted the same as the underdash areas and some of that color was seen under the other items like the fording cable dash plate. When I held the headlight pot up to 33070, it matched almost perfect. Could they have used late WW2 33070 on my early '51??????? It's also possible the standard color 2430 flat or satin without much gloss looked like Gillespie 33070. I'm not argueing, just like the way 33070 looks. All you guys can paint your Jeep as it pleases you. The test spraying of the two " correct " colors was done with Rapco spray cans I bought for the purpose of looking at them. John
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

The Willys factory drawings listing the paint spec say prime with flattened 2430. So to answer your question Willys did not prime with 33070. They primed with 2430 OD that was deliberately flattened. The similarity you see between the post 1954 color 33070 and the flattened 2430 is just a coincidence.

Do a little search of the tech board and research the paint issue a bit. You'll learn a lot. First make sure you understand the coding systems used. WWII colors were coded with 3 digit number codes. Early post war was 4 digit color codes. and then mid 50's came the 5 digit codes. Your 33070 is not an exact WWII color but simply a descendant of a combination of WWII colors.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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