M38 carburator after sandblasting

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:47 am

Hello everyone,

Does anybody have an idea as what to do to protect the carburator from rusting after sandblasting it? Do I have to put a varnish on it?
The reason I ask is that after sandblasting it, I washed a part with water. Soon after, rust appeared.
Here are the photos of my carb. I bought it on ebay. also bought a revision kit. I don't remember who from. It has been a while. I was running a solex carburator until now.

Jef

(image removed, posted now in lower message)
You can see the difference between a sandblasted and non sandblasted part

(image removed, posted now in lower message)
and this the final result.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:35 am

You'll need to link photos from a web site that allows access by our web site. Your Apple Ipod photo web site requires membership to access your photos.

The carb must be chemically plated. The overhaul shops have the facilities for this. You can spend a lot of money on plating equipment and supplies or just take the body parts to your local engine rebuilder and have them cadmium plated.

The carb kit you should be using must come from Ron Fitzpatrick G503 jeep parts, Army Jeep parts or Midwest Military Jeep Parts to insure you are installing the latest rubber composition parts.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 1:17 pm

Hello Wes,

Yes I think that the rebuild kit came from Midwest Military. It has been a while and I don't remember exactly. Good idea to have it cadmium plated. I will take it apart again and get it to and get it to a engine rebuilder. Or.... I just saw that Eastwood has carb paint. Would that do the trick as well?
Here is the link: http://www.eastwood.com/carb-renew-2-si ... -5-oz.html

thanks for the speedy reply. Jef

Here are the images again

Post by **wesk** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:32 pm

When you post photos you right click on the photo source and then click on "copy image url" then gp to the mjeeps web site dialog box and past that url between the two

The paint is a short term answer. If you want to open the hood next summer and see a proper looking carb get her properly coated.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:41 pm

Hello Wes,

Thanks again for the info. also on how to post the pics.
I'm going to disassemble the carb again and take it to the engine shop.
It looks too nice now, only to have it look bad next summer if I paint it...

Jef

Post by **wesk** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:14 pm

New old stock 637S Note the cast iron base is not plated. Only the top Air Horn Housing and the middle Bowl Housing are plated.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:25 pm

Thanks Wes,

I was going to get the cast iron base plated as well.
I will just paint that then to stop it from rusting.

greetings,

Jef

Post by **wesk** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:54 pm

Jef,
That gets very hot. I don't think paint would last very long. Ask around your area for either a black oxide treatment or powered aluminum spraying. Both will resist rust well and handle the heat. Try to do it with the throttle plate and shaft removed then make sure the the throttle plate and shaft are fitted correctly afterwards.

Make sure you include the vacuum chamber covers with the cadmium plating process.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 12:52 am

I'll ask if the engine rebuild guys can do the black oxide treatment. The only disadvantage is that I will have to remove the rubber throttle shaft seal again. I'll have to get a new carb kit for that and for the choke shaft seal.

Jef

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:01 am

I see this is an old thread, but had no updates, so I'm assuming you're not done yet? Maybe try a bbq grill paint on the base? I don't know if it is made in gloss black though. You could use a manifold paint from eastwood or some parts stores. I bought a rebuilt carb from Midwest Mil. years ago - it looked factory and worked great. Unfortunately, after sitting idle for the past 10 years, uwith no hood, I might have to put a kit in it. The plating has held up pretty well. I don't know if the base was painted or what, but it is still black also. all of the linkages had some surface rust on them - I guess they should have been zinc plated maybe.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:26 am

I tried to find an engine rebuilder who would be able to plate my carb, but I havent found one. I found the next best thing though.
Here is the link:
http://www.matthys.net/english/ezshop/e ... terCat=167

It is a varnish. You put the parts afterwards in the oven for 3 minutes.
Makes it resistant against fuels and oils. I'll let you know how it turns out.

The one in the link is for aluminum though. They also have one for steel.

Is the YS carb made of aluminum? I think the middle body and the air horn are? And the throttle body is made of cast iron.

Jef

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:33 am

Correct - the base and linkages are steel and the carb body is aluminum. The carb body and air horn was cadmium plated. My linkages, choke/throttle plates and screws were zinc plated and the base was painted or powder coated gloss black. Was very pretty.

jefbelgium · Post by **jefbelgium** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:55 pm

Sounds nice.... I think I will try the 4040 on the aluminum and the one for steel on the linkages.... Will post later on the results...

Jef

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:23 pm

Yeah, post up some pics when you get it done - After I get my 'A1 completed, I am going to start redoing little stuff like the carb and fuel pump again. I like to have as many ideas as possible before I start something.