Axle nuts and lock washers
- chicklin
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Axle nuts and lock washers
Going through my hubs and I noticed the axle nuts I've got are about 2 1/16" whereas the parts manual calls for 1 5/8". Am I reading something wrong or do I have non-original nuts?
Second, is there a source for the outer lock washer? Or, better yet, is there an aftermarket replacement that works better, maybe something with a set-screw? Bending the lip of that washer seems kind of goofy. Mine is all sorts of chewed up from years of bending it, I guess.
Second, is there a source for the outer lock washer? Or, better yet, is there an aftermarket replacement that works better, maybe something with a set-screw? Bending the lip of that washer seems kind of goofy. Mine is all sorts of chewed up from years of bending it, I guess.
1953 M38A1 #55997
- jimm
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1-5/8"-16 is the thread size; 2-1/16" is about the wrench size.
The lockwasher I used are Dorman 618-058, which I got at my local Car Quest auto parts store, $2.99 each. Yeah, it is indeed a pain to bend over the tab against the nut, as there isn't much room in there and the washers are pretty stout. I used a pry bar with a crooked end to get the bend started.
The lockwasher I used are Dorman 618-058, which I got at my local Car Quest auto parts store, $2.99 each. Yeah, it is indeed a pain to bend over the tab against the nut, as there isn't much room in there and the washers are pretty stout. I used a pry bar with a crooked end to get the bend started.
Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts
- chicklin
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- wesk
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Sounds like you are measuring the hex width for the wrench. The 1 5/8"x16 is the thread size of the hub or the hole in the nut.
The system has been in use for over 71 years and the bend the tab washer has worked well for all 71 years. I have not seen any aftermarket substitute.
Some people go nuts with the bending. It only takes an 1/8" deflection over one nut flat to be effective. The same guys that batter the washer are the same guys too cheap to buy the nut socket and beat up the nuts with a hammer and chisel.
The system has been in use for over 71 years and the bend the tab washer has worked well for all 71 years. I have not seen any aftermarket substitute.
Some people go nuts with the bending. It only takes an 1/8" deflection over one nut flat to be effective. The same guys that batter the washer are the same guys too cheap to buy the nut socket and beat up the nuts with a hammer and chisel.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- chicklin
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- oilleaker1
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Been here also, I found that the new washer is tough to get to bend. I figured out that you install all and tighten up to spec. Then scribe with a sharp point the washer along the outer nut. Then take it back off and start the bend in a vice along your scribe. Put it back together and it bends easy. Some nuts are so bad from chiseling that you are better off buying new ones. John
- idiocrates
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Just one more small additional fyi from my perspective....aka....learned from taking my front hubs off.....when I opened up the area where the nuts and lock washers were I found lots and lots of grease. I probed into the grease with my finger and found the nut and washer buried in there and proceeded to remove the excess grease with my finger tip so I could see what I was doing while removing the nuts and washers. I never even imagined that years of pounding with chisels....screwdrivers.....and punches could have left sooo many sharp and jagged spurs on the nuts and washers.....I actually thought that anybody who'd be in here surely had the right tool to do this properly.....not. After a couple of pretty good cuts I got out the solvent and small paint brush and cleaned things up the right way. Just be careful in this location.....those old nuts and washers have really sharp teeth!
Oh yeah......and you know that part in the manual where they say to only apply side pressure to the hub in the area where the material is the thickest.....they mean it! Don't pry directly across from a bolt hole or in an area where the hub wall is thin.....you will ruin something and it won't be your screwdriver.
Oh yeah......and you know that part in the manual where they say to only apply side pressure to the hub in the area where the material is the thickest.....they mean it! Don't pry directly across from a bolt hole or in an area where the hub wall is thin.....you will ruin something and it won't be your screwdriver.
Jim
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- circleburner12
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- chicklin
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Yep.Oldsalt wrote:I think Wes meant that he hadn't seen any alternative to the bendable washer to lock the nuts in place. Not that there are no nuts and washers available. I think you can find the nuts and lock washers at any of the MV vendors.
http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/156 ... ccessories
1953 M38A1 #55997
- wesk
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You can buy nut/washer sets from Napa, Carquest and etc as well. Same for the nut tool wrench.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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- chicklin
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