Junk in tank

Justin-Time · Post by **Justin-Time** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:49 pm

Does anyone have any good ideas how to remove and clean rust and debris inside a fuel tank? I have heard that the kits our on the market to clean and coat tanks do not work good. My tank does not leak but is very rusty and bad.

MODIFIED · Post by **MODIFIED** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:35 pm

Evap-o-rust .

12B · Post by **12B** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:08 pm

Well, I used KBS RustBlast.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com

I only did it this winter, but so far I am pleased with the results.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:04 pm

You can try electrolysis - search for "Cleaning am m38a1 tank using electrolysis" on youtube. I've used electrolysis on lots of things, including jerry cans, and it worked great. Seems like an easy way to do a gas tank to me.

Matt

jam51m38cdn · Post by **jam51m38cdn** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:20 pm

Wilfreeman is right, a big plastic tank, baking soda,water, and a battery charger. It takes a while but works pretty good, just make sure you hook up the cables the right way. Jim

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:15 pm

I set up a tank using a plastic 55 gal drum with the top cut out, rebar wired together for the anodes, TSP (or Arm and Hammer washing soda works) and a battery charger. You can use a rubbermaid plastic storage container even a fabricated tank made with a frame and plastic sheeting or a tarp, depending on what you need to clean. Be advised that electrolysis will also remove or loosen paint also (which is another use for it). Although baking soda does work, TSP (tri sodium phosphate) or washing soda will work better because of a higher ph.

As seen in the video, he used a fabricated anode holder and filled the tank completely up, because it won't clean what the water isn't touching. You should see bubbles start to form as soon as the charger its plugged in which means it is working. Let it do its magic for about 6 hrs or so and check the progress - continue if necessary.

Matt

Post by **wesk** » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:43 pm

Or take it to your radiator shop or engine overhaul shop and have them hot tank it.

Justin-Time · Post by **Justin-Time** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:18 am

What method do you guys think will have better results, hot tanking it or the electrolysis method?

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:38 am

Hot tanking probably - but it will cost you. I paid $80 - 13 yrs ago for cleaning and coating the inside at a radiator shop. I let it sit around until about 5 yrs ago when I started working on her again. By then there were pin holes everywhere. I chose to get an Omix tank from Rugged Ridge over cutting out the bottom and replacing - what a mistake!

Matt

SteveJ · Post by **SteveJ** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:46 pm

Id do the radiator shop. Its quick easy and someone else cleans up.

electrolysis takes a lot of setup and is slow and for a fuel tank you will have a big vat sitting around.
Ive also done a couple of tanks using myriatic acid soloution. It works fast and will find every pinhole. Its also fairly cheap at the hardware store. On the downside it takes a lot of safety prep and cautions when handling so a lot of research is required to do it right for a good end result and with safety. It will need to be disposed of properly also. (my local fire hall has a depot that accepts it)

So that being said its back to the radiator shop whre they are equipped to get the job done albeit for a few bucks but money well spent.

Justin-Time · Post by **Justin-Time** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:27 pm

I called our local radiator shop today. They said they could do it. They do not do a hot tank process. He said they wash and use a chemical process to remove all the rust and crud. They then coat the inside of the tank with something. I was a little concerned when he said they coat the inside. He said they have been doing them that way for the last twenty years and have had great results. He said the coatings dont even break down with racing fuels. Its going to run about $100. I think I'm going to give it a try. I'll let you guys know how it turned out.

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:44 pm

Cool - that will take care of any pin holes that you might have after the cleaning too. Yeah, get some pictures if you can.

Matt

Post by **wesk** » Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:37 am

I am not fond of coatings in any fuel tank. I have repaired many a coated tank with deteriorating coatings. These coatings may or may not last 10 to 20 years but we all know the tanks that were taken care of over the years survived 50 years of use without any interior coatings.

Pin holes are no different than large holes. They must be repaired. I am certain your radiator shop would not rely on an anti-corrosion internal coating to seal any holes in the tank. Those coatings are not structural.

Racing fuels are not the enemy of the tank's inner surface. Water and ethanol are the enemies.

SledDog · Post by **SledDog** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:06 am

I agree with the Hot Tank method. I took mine to Performance Radiator (location throughout the US). It came back looking brand new. To give you an idea:

Here's the inner sleeve before treatment, the entire interior of the tank looked like this:

It came back looking like this inside and out:

wilfreeman · Post by **wilfreeman** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:24 am

Pretty - looks brand new!