Here's the starter I took out of the A1 when I switched it over to 12V. It was working when I removed it, but not very well.
Lot's of gear lube in there. The trans and transfer are coming out this winter for new seals, synchros, etc.
I've read several suggestions for what can be used to clean off all the gunk: brake cleaner, contact cleaner, etc.
I'd like to hear your recommendations for what to use and how to go about cleaning this out.
Thanks!
1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
When I rebuilt my 24v generator, the instructions (in the "Downloads" section of this website) called for cleaning with "volatile mineral spririts or dry cleaning solution". I use mineral sprits in my parts washer so I cleaned the really gunky parts there and followed up with clean mineral sprits. The instructions also suggested not soaking the parts - use just a spray then dry with a careful application of compressed air. Everything came out well.
Pay attention to not disturb the field wrappings, and make sure the brushes move freely in the holders and the springs are good. A brush hanging up is usually what starts the demise of things. Brushes are cheap to replace. Check for leakage of the windings to the case, and shorts in the armature. You can do a battery check with jumper cables. Ground to the center shaft and touch and drag the positive over the commutator segments. If it's good nothing happens. If it isn't a shocking experience will occur . You need to buy a backup Jeep so you can tour more while the other is apart. John
skyjeep50 wrote:When I rebuilt my 24v generator, the instructions (in the "Downloads" section of this website) called for cleaning with "volatile mineral spririts or dry cleaning solution". I use mineral sprits in my parts washer so I cleaned the really gunky parts there and followed up with clean mineral sprits. The instructions also suggested not soaking the parts - use just a spray then dry with a careful application of compressed air. Everything came out well.
Excellent, thanks, I should have thought to look in the downloads. Found it, TM1825B, page 317, para 108.
Last edited by jbjeeps on Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
oilleaker1 wrote:Pay attention to not disturb the field wrappings, and make sure the brushes move freely in the holders and the springs are good. A brush hanging up is usually what starts the demise of things. Brushes are cheap to replace. Check for leakage of the windings to the case, and shorts in the armature. You can do a battery check with jumper cables. Ground to the center shaft and touch and drag the positive over the commutator segments. If it's good nothing happens. If it isn't a shocking experience will occur . You need to buy a backup Jeep so you can tour more while the other is apart. John
Thanks John, good info as always!
A backup Jeep? I'm always looking! We finally got the backyard enclosed with 6' cedar fence this fall, so now I can hide even more good stuff in the backyard without worry about offending the neighbors or the HOA!
1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.