Front Axle problems...

[OKCM38CDN]

I took my M-38CDN out for a run this weekend with a group called Military Jeepers, we did a Toys for Tots poker run... mine was definatly the oldest REAL jeep there... During the run I had an instance where I could not make a left turn without forcing it to turn, I am in 2WD and using lockouts.

I have had popping noises come from the driver's front axle in the past when in 4WD and under power (such as climbing or such). So I have a feeling that the front axle is in need of rebuilding / repair...

What are some of the things I might look for during the rebuild? I have never messed with the front axle before...

Any advise is welcome... I will need to pull the axleat the storage location and leave the jeep there as I do not have a place to leave it till the axle is put back on...

Thanks in advance...

[Bretto]

We're your hubs locked or free at the time? Do you know what kind of axle joints you have? Bendix, spicer, rezeppa? If I had to take a guess, I bet you have Bendix and the balls are loose and binding in the joint.

That could be a dangerous ailment that you should resolve before any more driving.

[wesk]

Do this test with the hubs free and then again with the hubs locked. Jack the front wheels off the floor and tie the steering wheel full left. Turn each front wheel by hand and listen for noise and feel for binding once free wheel and once with hubs locked. Then tie the steering wheel full right and repeat the two tests. The noise or binding will pinpoint the hub that needs work.

You could have any one of 7 different axle applications in a Model 25 axle assy. Bendix, Rzeppa, Tracta (threaded end or non-threaded end) and Spicer. I doubt you have an old Tracta. You should not have a threaded end axle but could easily have had one traded in at some time either on just one side or both.

Before you disassemble check the front steering angles first. FIRST since the wrong angle with the wrong axle can cause the axle joint issue and if not corrected can cause the problem again later.

Once you know what angles the stops are set at then open up the offending knuckle and determine which model axle you have in it.

Then start the dis-assembly and repair using the manuals. I say manuals because there's a lot of info in the CJ SM1002 manual that is not in the M38 manual.

I have the chapter for the front axle from the SM1002 here:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

[oilleaker1]

Wes said more in a short message about this than I've ever seen. If you look at the illustrations, there is a clip on some that holds the axle from shifting in and out under the small cap, or in the middle of the lockout hub. If it's off or gone, the u-joint part could be shifting in too far and binding up. Also look for bubba putting in too long of bolts through the brake backing plates and they hit the bell on the end of the axle. Another catch is if the fill plug goes in too far and hits the bell . As said you better check it out, if it locks up, bad expensive things could happen or worse, have happened. Good luck. John

[artificer]

As you can imagine if the lockouts are engaged the axles will turn including the c/v setup, no matter what brand, when the wheel does.

This c/v joint needs to be centralized in the swivel pin [steering knuckle] housing.

If it is off centre & is unable to establish centre by moving in or out even slightly, you will have the problem you are discussing.