Got new stuff.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:46 pm

no pics yet got kinda dark out. Went out today and picked up some free parts, a frame, almost complete very rough but its got some bits I need for mine, a grill, I think it is a civvy one but its in better shape than mine, and a powerplant(engine, transmission, transfer case) its kinda rough, been outside and missing some things, but its a block. strange thing, kinda brushed the number clean, would swear it says MB-# any idea what it would be out of if that is the prefix?

frankthecrank58 · Post by **frankthecrank58** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:38 am

probably an MB. M-38 engines have an MC prefix

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:18 am

MB was a Willys WW2 era engine. Some were put in welders and generators. If it's not worn out and cracked, it's easily traded for a CJ engine. Should have a 638632 casting # and if you look at the RR corner area of the oil pan block surface, bottom of the block, they stamped the mfg. date on the surface that the gasket and pan bolted up to. If the head has Willys and Jeep cast into it, it's '44-'45 and used on '46 CJ's. Should be a smooth head without ribs. Finding a Real stamped M38 engine is actually harder. Now you have a excuse to build a Willys MB WW2 Jeep right?

John

evanso1975 · Post by **evanso1975** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:22 am

Is the engine number on the "flat" part between the water pump and the front of the cylinder head?. The MB's (and Ford GPW's) had the serial number stamped on the side of the block:

http://www.1944mb.com/a-36-G503_WWII_19 ... umber.aspx

That link is for 1944 MB's; correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I'm aware they didn't change the engine number location during production.

Owen.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:50 am

MB's and GPW's had a oval pad RF of block just below head gasket. Yea if he's looking behind the water pump up front on the flat of the protruding block surface and sees a "M" he may have a M38 block. That would be cool!

John

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 7:52 am

its an oval at the front of the block passenger side just below the head. the head is ribbed, has willys and jeep on it. if it doesn't rain I will see about getting some pictures of it. it has a t90a transmission on it and a transfer case. now the transfer has a small brass tag riveted on the top of it, brownline gear or something it says, have to clean it up a bit. So far it sounds like I found something interesting though

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:39 am

okay tooks some pics of the engine. They are in my album (way back page 11 of albums) however it does seem to be the MB engine.

serial is MB-120971, down toward the back the casting is 1-29 638632 W1
Head had 10-4 s40161 then a kinda angled N ? and W6 states tappet clearance as 014 which I understand to be older.
Transfer case tag is interesting, Brown-Lipe Gear Box, Spicer manufacturing corporation, toledo ohio usa, model 18, serial j64700
She is badly neglected as can be seen in the photos but for free if I can get her going

wtb853 · Post by **wtb853** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:47 pm

Is that mud packed into the oil filler tube? The ribbed head is 6 40161 which is a later CJ2a (and 3a?) head. You can't argue with free.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 2:19 pm

Keep a few points in your mind on that powerplant.

It is a WWII unit and most likely a chain drive cam unit.

It has the WWII front engine mount plate that won't work on your M38. mounts nor will the large M38 fuel pump and generator work with it.

It has the early rear block to bell housing face without the 3 extra bolts on each side so the 38CDN correct later bellhousing and starter will not be a bolt on.

The head does not have the water pump bypass but it can still be used.

Load a photo of the front end of the engine so I can see the timing cover clearly. The early chain drive cam engines used a different timing cover.

You must use the early chain drive cam and the matching oil pump with that engine.

Bronwe-Lipe was a subsidiary of Spicer and eventually disappeared or was dissolved and absorbed into it's parent company Spicer.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 2:52 pm

okay uploaded phots as requested.
As to the mud... yes there is dirt in bad places and water and other things. Until I tear it down its hard to say how bad it is though. but I expect very bad, it was outside and kinda upside down for some time.

now assuming I can find nothing else, I can make this work though? change the mounting plates and compromise here and there? I am of course willing to trade if someone needs this and has the right one.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:10 pm

That button where the three ribs come together is the tension pin for the chain drive camshaft gear. That engine has a lot of value to a MB owner that needs that serial number engine. I'd keep my investment to a minimum and offer it for sale as is on an MB sales board. It would help to pull the pan and get the date of machining and make sure the engine internals can be rotated.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:47 pm

right now it won't turn, put a pipe wrench on the front and could not budge it. not surprising really. will have to open it up eventualy.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 12:20 am

Do not assume it's a stuck piston. Valves stick in the guides enough to stop you from turning it also. Have the side valve cover off so you can check the valves as well.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:15 am

well that is part of opening it. probably just pull the valve cover and the oilpan once I can get to that. seeing in those spots should tell me alot. I do not want to break any seals though until I can get it in the shop so I have just sprayed it down with wd-40, including into various holes, to slow any rust that is there.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:44 am

The time proven (over 60 years) way to soak an engine to free it up is to use diesel fuel in all areas. Let it sit for a week and then try moving the crank. If it moves a little add a bit more diesel and come back in a few days and try again.