Got new stuff.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:24 pm

Cracks to look for are: distributor sleeve hole in block, entire distributor side of the block, water jacket holes between studs and valves, especially the # 2 & 3 cylinders. Have you found any re-bore size stamped on the pistons? Any bearing sizes? If it's standard and not cracked, you are a winner!

John

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:17 pm

Where should I look for those sizes? Supposed to be nice tomorrow I can go out and check a few more things.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:18 pm

Gently scrape the carbon off the piston tops and look for nothing, or .030 for example. Nothing usually means standard, and .030 is 30 over or it has been bored. The rods and mains have bearing shells or insert bearings that will have the markings on the outside towards the end. You have to take the rod and crank caps off to see. Treasure hunt time. John

Post by **wesk** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:09 pm

Don't forget cracks between the valve seats.

My original suggestion was to unload that motor without investing a ton of your time, labor or money in it. You got it for nothing and you can sell it for $300 to 400 right now to a MB owner looking for that serial number. Or you can continue on this path and invest 25 to 40 hours into it then try to sell it for $500 without any warranty. There are MB owners who will risk $300 to 400 right now they way it sits.

You can run with $400 right now in your pocket and find a M38 engine in that range and be investing your time, energy and money in the correct engine for your project.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:37 am

I understand. I am not really investing money just time in finding things. I would also try to keep it as a unit being as the transmission and transfer case are original to the engine as far as I know. I just have to get around to putting up the ad. Thinking 800 for the whole thing.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 10:10 am

That engine came with a T84 tranny and a very early 3/4" shaft D18. The T90 does not fit well in a MB because it is longer and taller the T84. You would be money ahead to sell the tranny/transfer separate or hold onto them until you have your M38 project running since they are essentially the same tranny and transfer the M38 uses.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:05 am

hmmm... well that is something to think on then. I do need the transfer case and a spare transmision never hurts.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:40 pm

Okies. did some poking today.
Front main bearing has the number 2986 030 the middle has 2987 020 I did not remove the rear.
Connecting rod #1 piston bearing has clevite micro on one side and 3 24 010 / cb 236 m on the other
The pistons are all marked on the top starting from the front 030/ 0300/ 0300/ 0300
What does this tell you folks who know these things?

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 3:58 pm

The crank was either ground .020 or .030 undersize on the mains or the builder simply used whichever undersize bearing fit best on the mains which may have been left unground but worn.

Rods were probably ground .010 undersize.

Bores are probably .030 oversize.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 6:58 pm

Alright so its a definite rebuild, by either the army or a shop most likely then. Got a couple of folks asking about it so I do not think it will sit long.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:22 pm

It could have been rebuilt several times. Military rebuilds generally have the depot overhaul facility's rebuild plate nailed to the block. I didn't see an rebuild plates on that block so you can assume that any rebuilding occurred after the military. The variations in main bearings leads me to believe that the last work was probably a civilian on a tight budget.

pickle · Post by **pickle** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 8:54 pm

Xamon;

Here is a link for what to look for "F" scripted parts...you probably already have figured it out but maybe you are interested for future reference

http://web.aanet.com.au/malikoff/jeep/fordpart.html

scroll down and they have a list of parts.

you would have even seen them on the bolts holding the intake manifold down too.

anyways, I had a question for FRankencrank....

filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life.

did you replace the stinky oil in the oilpan with the diesel and ATF and then run the drill to get the oil in the gallies? just curious because I am thinking about doing the same....I know the when my jeep ran last, we serviced the oil religiously. It has been 20 + years before it ran last. I will probably overhaul at some point. thanks.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:43 pm

Well nobody has come for this yet and it got warm and I was bored.

the camshaft is totaly loose and can be spun fairly easily. the Pistons are very stuck, have had them soaking for a couple weeks too. The number three I can drive a bit but I need a better piece of wood. Anyways ther are some numbers on the side of the crank, I believe one is a date in which case this is from 48, possibly when it was rebuilt? couple other pics in my album.

jimm · Post by **jimm** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:48 pm

frankthecrank58 wrote:i can attest to the diesel soaking. just got a '67 Jeepster that was parked outside and not run for 18 years. locked up solid. drained the oil and such a foul stench of old gas and oil. filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life. a few more times with the fuel and it ran. quietly(for an odd-fire Dauntless) shot a mouse nest out the exhaust and scared the dog

Your story reminds me a lot of the talking "song" by C. W. McCall (Bill Fries and Chip Davis) from 1975: http://www.narrowgauge.org/4x4/cw_pages ... ified.html (lyrics) or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wmhOFvMiOM (audio)

Post by **wesk** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:55 pm

I had a question for FRankencrank....

Quote:
filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life.

did you replace the stinky oil in the oilpan with the diesel and ATF and then run the drill to get the oil in the gallies? just curious because I am thinking about doing the same....I know the when my jeep ran last, we serviced the oil religiously. It has been 20 + years before it ran last. I will probably overhaul at some point. thanks.

You can spin the oil pump in a GM with a drill but not in a Willys 134 4 banger. The oil pump shaft is geared direct to the cam.