Pistons

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:31 am

Okay Quick question, should it be possible to push the pistons out the bottom or do they have to come out the top? I ask because the top is in rough shape but the bottom is fairly smooth. not to mention it is easier driving against a piston than a shaft. Other than not hitting htem directly (using a block of wood) any suggestions?

Post by **wesk** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:23 am

Always go out the top. As cylinder bores wear they get larger at the top where the piston rings change direction each stroke. It will be tougher going out the bottom when the piston rings are frozen in the ring grooves in the larger part of the bores. Some engines the bottom has block material in the way as well.

You should remove any ridge at the very top edge of the bores and then run a hone down to the top of each piston. These tools can usually be rented. Clean and flush the bores. Then rub some 30 wt. engine oil on the bores above the pistons with your hands.

Then with the block upside down and a good piece of hardwoods and a heavy hand mallet or dead blow hammer place the wood against the rod and have a bud hold the rod straight while you hammer.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:39 pm

I knew some blocks you could not go out the bottom, hence the asking. Don't have an assistant but the rods are pretty stiff so they don't sway much anyways. Only had a pine board at the time, cracked it after I got the one piston moving. I wass wondering about the hone, I think that will be the only way, there is some good scale in the top end. This is where having a nice 2 ton press could be useful.
Thanks for the info Wes.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:25 pm

Well it wasn't a bad day today, spent some time cleaning the cylinders lubed them up and got all the pistons out, for some reason the number three fractured but the rest are fine. Only the number one had a ring that moved all the rest are locked. Visualy the cylinders look okay, need a polish of course.

now a question, distributor, I can turn the inards by hand, have loosened both bolts on the outside that I can see but can't budge the thing. How do you get it out without hurting the block? can you knock it from the bottom end somewhere?
Oh and about two pounds of crap fell out of the water jacket as I was baning on things.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:01 pm

The aluminum distributor body has seized in the iron block. Usually soaking with penetrant and rotating left right over and over again will eventually free it. Once it starts to rotate slightly then you can try pulling up on it a little as you continue to rotate it back and forth. Sometimes a bit of propane torch warming on the block adjacent to the distributor will help wick penetrant in between them.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:12 pm

Thanks. give it a try once it warms again. supposed to be cold for a few days. Although thinking about it the distributor is rusty...

When I was cleaning up the crud that came out of the water jacket there was a pin and a spring in it, about 1/4" diameter the spring is about an inch long the pin is closer to three. Any idea where they would have come from? I forgot to get a picture of it I may get one tomorrow if it's a big mystery

Post by **wesk** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:20 pm

Anything found inside the water jackets will be a mystery!

RickC · Post by **RickC** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:16 am

I have the same distributor on my spare block and I can't budge it at all......

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:09 pm

Well that does not bode well. it is definatly shot and has to come off. We shall see what happens.
This is the strange bits that fell out. Any ideas?

There is a darker shot in my album but this shows the wear better.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:05 pm

Take a look at page 20 of ORD 9 SNL G-740. The different brand of pumps use different looking springs and plungers.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:47 pm

I think I know where it came from. I belive it is the spring loaded bit behhind the camshaft timing sprocket. Been snowing and very cold/windy today. once it warms again I will check.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:54 pm

Forgot you had a chain drive cam. Those two parts are on page 14 of ORD 9 SNL G-503 Oct 49.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:09 pm

the way I understand this from looking at it, this presses against the screw in the cover to hold the camshaft in the correct position?
I have no valve spring tool so that bit is staying together for now, it all moves fairly easily anyways. Valves are shot though, one has a chip missing off one side. Almost have this block stripped though.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:32 pm

The hardened surfaces of the cam showing rust are pretty much a death sentence for the cam. You'll have a lot more of your time in that old WWII block then you'll ever get out of it in a sale.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:00 am

I'm just pulling it appart for entertainment and practice really. I have invested maybe $15 in lubricants and the like to get things moving and prevent further rust, everything else is just my time.
most of the rust on the cam is suspended in oil from ratating it, hard to say condition until it is out and clean. I of course realize this turns it into a block and box of parts but at least it is no longer siezed and I still see no visible cracks.
You mentioned previously something about the rear endplate, does that mean the bell housing goes with the engine?