how to tell axle type

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:18 pm

Is there any way before taking it apart to tell if it is bendix or rzeppa? I have the drum off but want to know, if possible, what I will find inside. Looking at the manual I think it is bendix, but the pictures are not very good.
Thanks guys. I will try to take some pics before getting dirty tomorrow. have the frame ready to go to the blaster/welder.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:12 pm

The axle originally came with a tag bolted to the knuckle seal retainer with the model of knuckle joint. Otherwise you'll have to see it to ID it!

The better illustrations are in the civvy manual here:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:45 am

Alright. thanks Wes. I guess I will either find a tag as I keep digging the grease off this(no rust, yeah) or have to take it apart. Was the tag usually on a particular bolt? I have the topside of the passenger seal cleaned, haven't gotten to the driver side yet, the lugs are soaking but I may have to cut them.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:56 am

Go to the reference file I gave you and view page one's largest photo.

evanso1975 · Post by **evanso1975** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:17 am

If it helps, here's a close-up of mine:

Post by **wesk** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:27 am

You are very fortunate to have that tag. Considering the Army's frequent repacking of the hubs those tags were rarely re-installed. Can I add your photo to my tech file?

evanso1975 · Post by **evanso1975** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:45 am

Can I add your photo to my tech file?

Yes, no problem. Both tags were present, as well as one of the ratio tags. Here's how they were when I removed them:

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:23 am

That helps, I have at least one of the ratio tags I think. If I do I will post some shots. the grease/sand on these is about an inch thick, so far none seems to have gotten into anything though, the grease in the hub was not gritty, a bit sticky and separating but no grit.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 12:43 pm

Tags.

not as nice as yours but hey.

Removed the brake stuff while I was at it. Still can't get the other wheel off, the studs have broken loose I think, I can spin the lugs with a lot of difficulty but it is not getting looser. Haven't decided whether to get a nut splitter or just cut them with the grinder.
Looked at the brake S line on various sellers they do not look like mine.

anyway got too wet no more garage time for me, the floor floods 1/4 inch in the kind of rain we are getting.

billybob · Post by **billybob** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 3:04 pm

Evanso 1975 are you using copper brake lines or is it just the light. single or double flares? Just curious. Thanks.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:10 pm

I did my entire M38 brake tube plumbing with prefabricated steel, double flared tube. Careful measurements and compensating for a couple of lengths that were not quite stock. Only a super anal intentive with a spy glass and tape rule would be able to tell they weren't exactly stock.

billybob · Post by **billybob** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:06 pm

I think that is the way I will go. I just don't have any luck with double flares. I bought a piece of solid heavy guage ground wire about the same diameter as the brake line then I marked it off in 1 inch increments to give me the length after I make all the bends That way I have a pattern to go by. I may save me from ruining a new brake line or two. It can be straightened and rebent several times.

DJ · Post by DJ » Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:19 pm

To remove the wheel try drilling down the center of the stud, using progressively larger bits.

evanso1975 · Post by **evanso1975** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 12:20 am

Evanso 1975 are you using copper brake lines or is it just the light. single or double flares? Just curious. Thanks.

They're cupro nickel, and double flare; we'll see how it holds up to the weather if I ever get the M38 back in one piece.

The "S" bends into the wheel cylinders are steel; I bought those pre-made, as I didn't fancy trying to make those small bends.

Tags. not as nice as yours but hey.

Nice. Mine were like that before I cleaned them up. If you can't get all the rust spots out, give them a coat of silver alloy wheel paint. Worked for me.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:42 am

I have actually barely tried to clean them, hand wire brush after scraping the crud off.
Drilling the studs sounds like a long process, I think I am going with the 4 1/2 grinder with cut off wheel. Just cut the stud and nut in two in one go. on the upside it is missing two nuts so only have to cut 3. Rim is also no big deal it is not one of the originals and I have a set of civy that it will likely end up on once it starts going back together, at least until I get proper ones with the right tires