How do I remove instruments

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:41 am

I need to remove the fuel gauge and the speedo. Can I just pry them loose, or do I need to get access from behind the panel?

Post by **wesk** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:50 am

Depends on model jeep. If you will add the model of your jeep to your signature block in your profile it will show up on all your posts giving us a place to start with suggestions or answers.

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:07 am

Post by **wesk** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 1:36 pm

The gauges are fixed to the dash via a "U" shaped bracket or two "L" shaped brackets on the back that pulls the front gauge bezel up tight against the dash. You must disconnect the electrical leads or tubing nut, then remove the two nuts that retain the gauge retainer bracket or brackets. Then slide the gauge out the front. Please note that the temp gauge has a permanently attached capillary tube that must stay attached to the gauge. You must disconnect it from the cylinder head and thread it through the firewall and the dash hole as you move the gauge away from the dash. The temp gauge bracket is slotted so you can remove it off the gauge and capillary tube both.

The photos below are from my 45 MB project and have a mix of original and aftermarket gauges.

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:31 pm

I take it I have to crawl under the dash to get to them?
I'm more used to bikes, and all cables break before the instruments do, so I'll take my chances and go for the speedo cable without checking the speedo itself.

Thanks!

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:10 pm

Word to the wise and to myself, disconnect the battery cable first.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:15 pm

I'm kinda use to jeeps and the same cable nut you have to remove to change the cable is the same one you have to remove to troubleshoot the cable. So you won't save a single dime or a single minute of labor by not pulling the cable nut off now before ordering the cable and you could save about 50 dollars by pulling the nut off now id the cable isn't broken!

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:45 pm

The fuel gauge is all about proper ground. I managed (after a lot of not so nice words) to unfasten it, and when I press the gauge housing against the instrument panel, it indicates correctly. So a bit of sanding/scratching will take care of that problem.
About the speedo cable, can I change just the cable inside, or do I have to change the hose as well? If I can change just the wire, from which side can I pull it out? Top or bottom? The hose has probably been there since the car was overhauled by the Deutsche Waggon und Mashinen factory in 1955!
I don't have the proper pliers to unfasten the cable, so need to buy them tomorrow.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:29 pm

It only takes a standard pair of channel lock pliers to loosed the outer sheath end nuts. Depends on what style cable/housing assy you have on the inner cable removal. Some have a split washer crimped on one end and will only come out that way. You can lay under the jeep, scrape off the crud and undo that end and try sliding the inner cable out or you can sit on both front seats (in the middle) and with the battery cable disconnected grasp the end nut on the back of the speedo with your pliers and unthread it then drop it down to the lower edge of the dash so you can see it. No need to lay on your back. Then BEFORE you pull it out try to rotate it. This will determine if it's broke or not and also confirm if the driven gear or drive gear are broken or stripped. Then pull it out to inspect it. If it doesn't want to slide out you will have to go under the jeep. The end that goes in the driven gear is keyed, the end that goes into the speedo is square.

You didn't say in what way your speedo failed. No needle movement, bouncing needle movement or way up the scale needle movement?

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 3:19 am

It never worked, so it's indicating 0. The needle will move a little bit when I drive, but that is related to the car bouncing over uneven surface. 90 % it will be the cable, but I will test it first.
The previous owner installed a battery kill switch. Nice! Saves a lot of time when I want to disconnect the battery.
Getting behing the dash is a bit difficult, this jeep also has a heater installed on the drivers side. Probably a mod done by the Norwegian Army? I can get really cold arond here during winter.
Thanks for all your valuable info! You make my jeep life a lot easier!

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:59 am

Fuel gauge fixed!
Got the speedo cable off on the speedo side. Cable is broken. It is very difficult to get the other end off, but I will get there eventually.

A question on the battery. I started charging it yesteday. This morning it was still indication half charged (the charger only indicates half or fully charged). It came up to full a little later, but when I was troubleshooting the fuel gage (ignition on and off) it dropped to 50 % again.
So, a new battery is probably a good idea. The local shop can get me one tomorrow, but it's only 84 A/h. it seems a bit on the weak side?
The jeep club can get me one with 107 A/h. About the same price, but it will take longer to get it here, and I have to pay shipping as well.
Any thoughts on 84 vs 107?

Never mind, I got hold of a 112 Ah battery for less money, and that is as far as I know, the biggest battery that will fit in the car.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:11 am

It is best to first determine why the cable failed before installing a new one.

Was the cable dry, lacking lube?

Does the speedo drive turn freely? Spin the drive receptacle in the back of the speedo counterclockwise. Does it turn freely and does the needle move up smoothly?

Is the inside of the sheath so worn out that the cable can wobble in it? This wobble induces cable failure.

The higher AH batteries are needed in cold climates. Are you still a 6 volt jeep?

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 1:44 pm

Yes, 6 volts. I don't plan to modify it. I will change the main cables eventually, batt to ground, batt to starter, etc.

The cable failed near the lower end. I'm not worried, cables fail all the time. It was not dry, so probably just got worn out. If I can just replace the core, i will do that, if not, I will do the complete cable.

MrWillys · Post by **MrWillys** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:39 am

Phew, finally managed to get the lower end of the cable off. In the end I had to use a heat gun, and finally it gave up.
The problem is, the cable failed at the very end, so the pin is stuck in the waddayoucallit.
NOT easy to get out! And not easy to work in that area.
Maybe a powerful magnet will do the trick? I've tried thin pliers and even tweezers, no luck.
The new battery arrived today, charging as we speak, and an electronic kit for the ignition is in the mail.
Going to replace the starter as well, if I can find one.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:57 am

Just remove the cap and driven gear from the transfer case and then you will have full access to the slot that the pin is stuck in.

Unscrew SS and remove TT which will give you access to the entire open length of the slot.

Note: if the cable broke at the end in the transfer case then usually that means the cable seized in it's outer housing. Look closely at the outer housing for pinch damage or kinks. If cable was dry then it may just be it seized in the outer housing due to a lack of lubricant. Either way resolve that issue before you run the new cable!!!