got the studs out- now what do I coat the new ones with?

Texbillhs · Post by **Texbillhs** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:31 am

I had a broken exhaust manifold on my M38 (which has a Willys Industrial engine) – 4 studs broke and I got them out. I have been lucky enough to never have had to do this until now. I dry fitted the new studs and I see they aren’t as tight in thread tolerance as I would like, but they should work. I can hand turn some of them in all the way and one of them I can wiggle slightly. My question is what would you use on the threads going into the block? The Bubba in me says use Teflon tread tape, on the 3/8-16 course end into the block. I intend to use Permatex 133K anti-seize on the 3/8 fine thread end in case I have to take it apart again. I will use Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi-Temp on the gasket. What did Willys use on studs to keep the coolant from leaking around the threads?

elias929 · Post by **elias929** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:48 am

I'm not an expert, but I sell and I use Permatex 59234(50ml) or 59214(6ml) thread sealant high temperature...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8jbi ... 100742.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4wox ... 100751.jpg

I think the part number for US is 59235 for (50ml)

Post by **wesk** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:59 am

With a stud that is wiggly loose it is going to come loose often in use and making it slippery will not help things. The idea is to seal and anchor the studs, not to make them easier to remove later. Most of us use the Permatex high temp thread sealer since one or more of the studs enter a water jacket. The wiggly stud needs to be mechanically repaired or if you are a risk taker then use one of the thread lockers designed to fill a lot of space.

Loctite 263 or 290 would be a good choice for the wiggly stud and will work on the rest since it also has good sealing qualities.

Go to the Loctite web site and download their threadlocker guides and study them.
http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/gree ... -13227.htm

Texbillhs · Post by **Texbillhs** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:54 pm

thanks Wes - now I need to figure out how to set the heat control spring - this manifold came with a new one, loose in a bag - no instructions. Can't find anyplace in TM9-8012 - shows it on Pp116 but doesn't say how much tension it should be set at. I'll look through the galley and your galley, but I don't remember seeing it

Texbillhs · Post by **Texbillhs** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:44 pm

found the heat control answer

http://www.1945mb.com/n-12-G503_WWII_Je ... ailed.aspx

Post by **wesk** » Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:58 pm

1st page of my album under L134 then 3rd page of the L134 album.

Texbillhs · Post by **Texbillhs** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 6:52 am

Thanks - just what I wanted - it is easier doing this on the bench. I went in yesterday but didn't get to the 3rd page I guess

Post by **wesk** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:54 am

Keep in mind there are two entirely different spring orientations and both fit the engine. There is no variable adjustment of tension. The initial installation is done so that the spring you have is installed relative to the stop as it's appropriate illustration indicates it should be. It is aligned loose and then the tab is only rotated enough in a tightening direction to place it on the stop where it belongs when cold. When these springs age and loose their tension the corrective action is to replace the spring.

Texbillhs · Post by **Texbillhs** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 1:52 pm

Mine looked like the second one, but it must go on CW like to top one. When the engine heated the ear on the spring went up (CCW), not the weighted lever. When it cools I'll change it to CW.

Thanks for the help. One other thing to mention, the 2 end studs need to be longer then the other 5. I had to make a quick run to NAPA store.

Can't let this old gal sit too long, the clutch was stuck (freed by putting it in gear and tapping the starter) and the brakes were screeching until the rust went away -- that was just from sitting a month.