
Bell crank woes
- Ryan_M
- Contributor

- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:00 pm
- Location: Glenburn, ME
Yes, the kit included the two dust seals. The dust seals, pinch bolt, bearings, and bearing sleeve were the same as what I removed but the sector shaft was different. With the shaft torqued down the bell crank would bind to the point it wouldn't move. I re-installed the old shaft and it works fine. The kit came from Walck's and was advertised as "Bell crank kit 7/8" 2A, 3A, 3B, CJ5/6, DJ, FC 150, M38, M38A1 up to 1966." There was no spring washer or boot included.


- chrisk
- Contributor

- Posts: 119
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:00 pm
- Location: the Netherlands
See page 8 Photo Gallery,my album with name sinrisnekaf page 2 there are 2 photos on the bellcrank. Hopes this helps.
Note: The parts of the bellcrank M38 and M38A1 are equal to each other.
Chris



Note: The parts of the bellcrank M38 and M38A1 are equal to each other.
Chris



Last edited by chrisk on Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:57 am, edited 13 times in total.
2x 1956 M38A1(Nekaf);1954 1/4TON trailer,Polynorm(Dutch);1983 Honda VF750C (Magna)
- Ryan_M
- Contributor

- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:00 pm
- Location: Glenburn, ME
The kit in your picture appears very similar to the one I received from Walcks. It's impossible for me to tell if the sector shaft (large bolt) is the same dimension and proportions but it certainly looks like it - including the hole in the end for a cotter pin (original did not have cotter pin). The only obvious difference with your kit is the inclusion of that larger rubber seal/boot.
Edit: Your kit also does not include a spring washer. Where did that kit come from?.
Edit: Your kit also does not include a spring washer. Where did that kit come from?.
- wesk
- Site Administrator

- Posts: 16467
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Yes, that is a CJ kit which can be used on the M38/M38A1 but you have to use the old bolt for the needed length.
You should check with MWM, AJP, Rapco & Ron Fitzpatrick military jeep parts for the correct new bolt, washer and rubber boot.
bolt (Shaft) - WO# 649219, ORD# 7375179, FSN 2530-00-737-5179
Washer, spring - WO# 801666, ORD# 7375177, FSN 5340-00-737-5177
Boot, rubber - WO# 801566, ORD# 7375180, FSN 5330-00-737-5180
You should check with MWM, AJP, Rapco & Ron Fitzpatrick military jeep parts for the correct new bolt, washer and rubber boot.
bolt (Shaft) - WO# 649219, ORD# 7375179, FSN 2530-00-737-5179
Washer, spring - WO# 801666, ORD# 7375177, FSN 5340-00-737-5177
Boot, rubber - WO# 801566, ORD# 7375180, FSN 5330-00-737-5180
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- wesk
- Site Administrator

- Posts: 16467
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:00 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
My M38 was assembled but I did look at a spare M38A1 frame I have and the raised collar that is smaller in diameter then the rest of the bracket pinch bolt area appears at both top & bottom ends and is machined into the steel. No bushing from Willys. I would guess the Cj's don't have the machined extended collar. This would account for the shaft length variation.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- cjohle
- Member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:00 pm
- Location: Abilene, TX
Sorry for drudging up this old thread, but I've run into the same thing on my M38a1 CDN.
Here's the difference, though - the old pivot shaft that came off of mine was the same length as the new one I ordered from kaiser willys and had the cotter pin hole at the top. I'm guessing someone had already installed a repair kit with that length of bolt.
The old bell crank had a lip that was machined out (not sure if after market or not) that went over the piece sticking out of the bottom of the bracket. Here's a pic of the old and new bell cranks (new on bottom of course):

Bottom line is - what is the solution? Can I use washers as a shim? I haven't found a bell crank that actually matches the old one.
Here's the difference, though - the old pivot shaft that came off of mine was the same length as the new one I ordered from kaiser willys and had the cotter pin hole at the top. I'm guessing someone had already installed a repair kit with that length of bolt.
The old bell crank had a lip that was machined out (not sure if after market or not) that went over the piece sticking out of the bottom of the bracket. Here's a pic of the old and new bell cranks (new on bottom of course):

Bottom line is - what is the solution? Can I use washers as a shim? I haven't found a bell crank that actually matches the old one.